The search for effective, sustainable ingredients remains constant in a rapidly evolving cosmetics industry. Startup Gaia Tech uses food by-products to create high-performance ingredients that meet the industry's need to respond to growing consumer and regulatory pressure for sustainability.

Peels, pulp, pomace, pits, shells, hulls, skins, seeds and other food by-products are often a burden for producers and must be disposed of at some cost. Gaia Tech founder Claudio Reinhard has seen first-hand how large quantities of olive oil production residues create environmental problems in Spain. 

Back at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich, he developed a process for extracting high-quality antioxidants from olive pomace. 

The innovative treatment begins by separating the solid and liquid components of the olive pomace. The liquid part then passes through a material specially designed to absorb the antioxidants. The absorber is made from a fully biodegradable material and can be used several times before being applied as an agricultural fertilizer at the end of its life cycle. In the final stage, the antioxidant extract is purified for incorporation into industrial products.

The demand for natural antioxidants is strong in industry. The startup's first product, an antioxidant olive extract, is currently being tested by leading industrial partners for a variety of applications, from anti-aging cosmetics to natural food preservation. One cosmetics industry researcher claims that Gaia Tech has "the best antioxidant technology they've tested to date". Analytical trials have been launched in the cosmetics sector, and a dossier has been submitted to Efsa (European Food Safety Authority) for use in food.

Following a successful spin-off from ETH Zurich, Gaia Tech has closed a first round of financing and secured support from the Migros Pioneer Fund, Innosuisse, the Berne Economic Development Agency and the University of Agricultural, Forestry and Food Sciences (HAFL). The company aims to expand its product range and apply its technology to other types of agri-food by-products, to help the industry fully replace synthetic and fossil ingredients. 

Specializing in plant-based ingredients and proteins, French company Roquette Beauté presented its new ingredient, Beauté by Roquette ST 320 (Inci Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate), at the Cosmet'Agora trade show held in Paris on January 16 and 17, 2024.

Made from non-GMO corn¹Vegan-friendly and biodegradable, this new ingredient is a versatile thickener and stabilizer designed for gels and emulsions. Easy to use, it offers great flexibility in the formulation of stable cosmetics in a multitude of applications and viscosity ranges. The aim: to meet consumer demand for naturally-sourced cosmetics that combine efficacy with a pleasant sensory experience.

Roquette Beauté states that various tests have been carried out to demonstrate the benefits of Beauté by Roquette ST 320 :

• Easy to disperse in hot or cold water
• Strong increase in viscosity after baking
• Very stable over time in emulsions and gels
• Stabilizing effect in emulsions (reduction in droplet size)
• Synergistic thickening effect with emulsifiers and cationic agents
• Easy adjustment of viscosity by adjusting concentration

Efficiency and sensoriality

According to Roquette Beauté, Beauté by Roquette ST 320 also acts as a "sensory enhancer bringing comforting, cocooning textures to cosmetic formulations."

This is particularly true as the holistic beauty trend continues to gain ground in the beauty and personal care market, with consumers increasingly aware of the impact of their beauty routines on their overall well-being.

"The addition of this product to our range perfectly illustrates our desire to bring the cosmetics industry plant-derived solutions that meet consumer expectations for safer products, with the right balance between nature and technology, nothing more and nothing less. We focus on the development of high-quality, versatile and sustainable plant-derived ingredients, and develop multifunctional solutions combining high performance and sensoriality."explains Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté.

_{1. Complies with EU GMO regulations 1829/2003 and 1830/2003}

Givaudan Active Beauty has created PrimalHyal 50 Life: a low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, "the most sustainable in the Givaudan portfolio". depending on the company.

The fruit of several years' research, PrimalHyal 50 Life was unveiled at the Cosmet'agora trade show in Paris on January 16 and 17, 2024. Givaudan Active Beauty researchers have been studying the bio-fermentation process for over 30 years, with a bold ambition: to strengthen the sustainability criteria of the hyaluronic acid molecule, as well as those of its production. 

Located in Champagne, Givaudan Active Beauty's center of excellence draws on its knowledge of white biotechnology to manufacture active cosmetic ingredients, a method that involves the precise fermentation of micro-organisms, exploiting mainly local carbon sources such as wheat or beet sugar, thus adopting a circular economy model in the context of a bio-refinery.

Thus, by leveraging strain engineering and precision fermentation, Givaudan Active Beauty's production methods are now more environmentally friendly, achieving an exceptional -91% reduction in environmental impact according to Givaudan Active Beauty. 

The company claims that PrimalHyal 50 Life includes significant improvements across various environmental parameters, as demonstrated by a lifecycle analysis boasting -92 % greenhouse gas emissions, -95 % water acidification and eutrophication, -90 % non-renewable energy use and -75 % water consumption*.

"Thanks to the outstanding work of our strain engineering scientists, we have completely reinvented the method of producing low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid. By directly obtaining the desired molecular weight during fermentation, we have considerably reduced our overall footprint. This is a major breakthrough for the beauty industry as a whole".says Romain Reynaud, Research and Development Director at Givaudan Active Beauty.

PrimalHyal 50 Life offers several skincare benefits according to Givaudan Active Beauty, including: deep skin penetration, up to 120 μm; stimulation of skin junction firmness; prevention of insensible water loss, to boost skin hydration for up to 72 hours after application; a reduction in skin roughness of -66% in one month; and perceptible benefits in terms of skin texture, firmness and hydration, noted by volunteers.

_{* Based on a cradle-to-gate LCA carried out in 2023 by an external firm on the basis of data supplied by Givaudan.}

It's a well-known fact: sunlight has the ability to stimulate the body and provide a feeling of well-being. But beware of too much sun! Excessive exposure to the sun's rays can have irreversible consequences for the skin. 

To protect your skin in the age of climate change, adopt intelligent routines based on highly specific formulas, adapted to external aggressions, is one possible way forward.

Climate, air pollution levels, altitude, humidity, sun exposure and other factors all lead to different skin needs depending on where you live. Geo-skincare is an innovative approach in this respect, recommending targeted treatments for each skin type, depending on the geographical and climatic context. 

Phytessence Osmanthus is Crodarom's floral ingredient dedicated to geo-skincare. Derived from the emblematic Osmanthus flower, celebrated in Asia and very trendy and popular in the perfumery sector, this ingredient is manufactured using a green, eco-designed process, Eco-sound technology. Phytessence Osmanthus helps protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun's rays and soothes sunburn by reducing redness and the production of PGE2.

Phytessence Osmanthus is an extract of Osmanthus flower, Osmanthus Fragrans, in glycerine and water. An extract of natural origin at 99.4 % according to ISO16128, approved by Cosmos, quantified in verbascoside (syn. Acteoside).

Possible applications include skin care creams, anti-stress serums, second-skin BB creams, sun protection, anti-mask care and heat protection hair care.

On the occasion of the 16th edition of the Cosmet'Agora trade show held in Paris on January 16 and 17, 2024, Basf Personnal Care unveiled Reflecting BeautyReflecting Beauty is a concept for rethinking cosmetics ingredients in terms of the balance between body, mind and environment. With Reflecting Beauty, the company aims to meet the expectations of consumers seeking authentic, more natural and more sustainable beauty. 

With Epispot, Basf targets blemish-prone skin, joining the "#NoFilter" trend for an authentic appearance. Addressing the root causes of an imbalance affecting lipids, microbiota and the skin's natural defense system, this new ingredient aims to reduce skin shine, improve the appearance of facial pores and promote a healthy complexion. Obtained by water extraction from the aerial parts ofEpilobium angustifoliuma plant responsibly sourced in France, this ingredient is suitable for a wide range of applications, from facial serums to cleansers and make-up formulations.

With the launch of Emulgade Verde 10 MS, Basf extends its polyglyceric fatty acid ester technology for natural formulations. According to the company, Emulgade Verde 10 MS is easily biodegradable and based on totally renewable raw materials. This Cosmos-approved ingredient contains no preservatives and is manufactured using an environmentally-friendly solvent-free process. " It is a robust, flexible emulsifier that offers good stability in O/W creams and lotions, and excellent compatibility with commonly used cosmetic ingredients, including synthetic polymers and biopolymers.the company says. Emulgade Verde 10 MS is suitable for a wide range of cosmetic formulations, as it liquefies shear and facilitates distribution on the skin. Dermatological tests show that it is suitable for sensitive skin. In addition, this O/W emulsifier can be used for microbiome-friendly concepts. "

Basf also offers a sustainable alternative to cyclomethicone with Cetiol iSan. Approved by Cosmos and Natrue, of 100 % natural origin (according to ISO 16128) and readily biodegradable (according to OECD 301F criteria), Cetiol iSan is, according to Basf, a high-spreading, low-volatility product that feels light on the skin. The company thus indicates that it is suitable for a variety of applications, from skin care to make-up and sun care formulations, while offering good make-up removal efficacy. "The superior olfactory profile of this clear, colorless liquid makes it suitable for high-quality natural cosmetics with little or no fragrance," says the firm.

_{Photo taken from Basf's Linkedin page.}