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dsm-firmenich appoints five noses as Principal Perfumers

dsm-firmenich appoints five noses as Principal Perfumers

Amandine Clerc-Marie, Bruno Jovanovic, Clément Gavarry, Dora Baghriche and Gabriela Chelariu join dsm-firmenich's elite Fine Fragrance team.

"We are delighted to announce the promotion of five exceptionally talented perfumers to the prestigious position of Senior Perfumer," said Emmanuel Butstraen, President of dsm-firmenich Perfumery & Beauty. Their dedication, creativity and passion for the art of perfumery have not only greatly contributed to the success of our company, but have also elevated the olfactory experiences we offer our customers and consumers around the world."

"Each of these perfumers has demonstrated an exceptional ability to create unique and captivating fragrances that resonate with our customers and consumers, adds Jerry Vittoria, head of the Global Fine Fragrance, Perfumery & Beauty division. Their promotion is a testament to their expertise, hard work, innovation and commitment to excellence."

Responsible for numerous fragrances, including Burberry Goddess, launched in 2023, Paris-based Amandine Clerc-Marie sees herself as a sculptor of the invisible, transforming materials and working on the volumes of each composition. She sees perfume creation as something similar to architecture, building perfumes as a construction with precise shapes and solid foundations that support the entire structure.

Also based in Paris, Bruno Jovanovic is fascinated by the smells that surround him. Inspired by artists and intellectuals, he combines creativity and audacity. Having spent half his career in the United States, his creations express both unbridled American freedom and sophisticated French heritage. He has created fragrances for some of the industry's most prestigious brands, most recently Montblanc Explorer Platinum.

Frenchman Clément Gavarry is inspired by the effervescence and dynamism of New York, where he has lived since 2000. A highly versatile perfumer, he comes from three generations of perfume experts. He has scored numerous successes in the United States and Europe, notably with Ariana Grande Cloud.

Paris-based Dora Baghriche is a creator at heart. A woman of letters, her first passion was writing, before falling in love with perfumes. Born in Algiers, where she spent her childhood, she approaches perfume creation with a contemporary vision, reviving cult raw materials and ingredients. She has created classics, most recently the award-winning Rabanne Fame and Narciso Rodriguez All of Me.

New York-based Gabriela Chelariu tells beautiful fragrance stories through her creations, linking her past to her present. She grew up in a small town in Romania, where the scents of nature guided her towards the world of fine perfumery. She studied at Romania's University of Pharmacy and learned about perfumery by working in a research laboratory for a flavorings company. Her visit to Grasse was a revelation. Her most recent successes include key launches for Bath & Body Works and Kayali by Mona Kattan.

Photo
- top, left to right: Gabriela Chelariu, Bruno Jovanovic, Amandine Clerc-Marie
- bottom, left to right: Dora Baghriche , Clément Gavarry

Éclosia, for pregnant and nursing women

Eclosia

Launched by Lauriane Rhée in November 2023, the Éclosia brand offers a range of 100 % cosmetics of natural and vegan origin for the sensitive skin of pre- and post-natal women.

Éclosia's three products - a toning soufflé body cream, a nourishing oil elixir for the body and a velvety day and night moisturizer for the face - can be used from the first month of pregnancy and after the post-partum period, and are specially designed for this skin type. 

The idea: to offer healthy, natural and sensorial products that enable women to reconnect with their bodies.

Products designed with moms in mind

According to a survey conducted by OpinionWay in June 2022, one woman in two says she can't distinguish between good and bad ingredients. 73 % trust only a selection of products during this period, despite the fact that pregnancy can be accompanied by a hormonal imbalance leading to skin problems such as irritation, tightness, hyperpigmentation, excess sebum and dryness.

To prevent the deleterious effects of hormonal imbalance, Éclosia skin care products are designed to protect the skin during and after pregnancy. A synergy of natural active ingredients and probiotics specific to each product has been formulated to be in affinity with the skin's flora during this period. 

"All products have been clinically tested and approved for pregnant and breastfeeding women. Skin flora is restored to 92 % according to a clinical study carried out on 12 pregnant women over 28 days."says Éclosia.

Éclosia products are made in partnership with French SMEs and a workshop employing disabled people. The packaging is eco-responsible (glass and wood, FSC case, vegetable-based inks).

Photo taken from www.eclosiaskincare.com.

A manipulator equipped with a specific hook gripping tool for handling drums and buckets

Dalmec-Manip Posivel for buckets

Dalmec presents a new Posivel PVC column-mounted industrial manipulator, custom-designed and developed for handling, picking up and moving drums and pails off the production line, and placing them on pallets or transfer carts. Target markets: food, cosmetics, chemicals and pharmaceuticals.

This double-cable manipulator helps operators transfer products with great flexibility, particularly when palletizing or depalletizing buckets or cans. Ergonomic, it acts as a real load balancer.

A special feature of this new version of the Posivel PVC is its special hooked gripping tool, which adapts to the shape of the handles of buckets of varying sizes, shapes and weights, to facilitate handling. To guarantee maximum operator safety, the gripping tool is connected to the manipulator's terminal arm by two independent steel cables.  

Load balancing is automatic, allowing the bucket - weighing up to 60 kg - to be picked up safely, with controlled, balanced handling. 

This pneumatic manipulator is particularly suitable for effortless manual handling of light loads in all directions. It features a double-articulated arm structure with an intermediate joint, ensuring smooth, precise movements throughout the working area. In this particular case, the Posivel PVC manipulator has been designed to effortlessly perform repetitive and meticulous manipulations, offering a large radius of action of up to 2600 mm. 

From a technical point of view, a pneumatic cylinder powered by compressed air, coupled to a double-cable transmission system, balances the applied load. The cylinder amplifies the lifting and lowering action, which is applied manually by the operator to the gripping tool or directly to the load. 

Last but not least, this manipulator can be fully integrated into cramped working environments, thanks to its evolutionary structure and the infinite possibilities of varying the shapes and dimensions of the terminal arm. As a result, all movements in space are unrestricted, and the operator can effortlessly move the load to any point in the work area, with the utmost ease and in optimum ergonomic and safety conditions. 

An IT platform dedicated to the migratory risks of cosmetic containers/contents

COSMETOPACK - plastic packaging and formulas

"How to address health issues linked to the risk of migration of virgin plastics and PRMs (FDA/EFSA) in contact with cosmetic formulas": this conference, to be held as part of PCD/Paris Packaging Week 2024, on Thursday January 18, from 1:45pm to 2:20pm, will enable Cosmetopack to present the results of its work.

For the past three years, the Cosmetopack/Cosmebooste consortium has been working on the development of an IT platform dedicated to all players in the cosmetics industry, from upstream to downstream: manufacturers of raw materials, packs, cosmetic ingredients and formulas, packagers, laboratories, toxicologists, brands, and so on.

The conference will cover the first two phases of the project. The speakers will then give a detailed presentation of phase 3, currently underway, specifically linked to the development of the IT platform integrating the definition of the pack, the definition of the product contained in the pack, the materials making up the pack with their LMS and MPR rates, and the analysis of the associated toxicological risk according to regulations.

CosmetoPack/Cosmebooste now has 20 partners: Berry-Bramlage, Eastman, Equitox, Laboratoires Expanscience, Kreatis, LVMH Recherche-Parfums & Cosmétiques, Lyondellbasell, MS Beautilab, Pure Laboratoire, SGS (Ex Metair), Texen, Groupe Treffert ; Groupe Rocher ; Itech, Université Lyon 1 ; Cosmed, Cosmetic Valley, Cosmetin Lyon, Polymeris, Polyvia.

Silab opens a subsidiary in Japan

Silab North East Asia KK

Silab, an independent French supplier of natural active ingredients for the cosmetics and dermocosmetics market, opened its sixth sales platform, Silab North East Asia KK, on November 1, 2023.

"The various crises we have all faced since 2020 are significantly changing markets, particularly in Asia. Already firmly established in China since 2003 and in South Asia (in Singapore) since 2013, we wanted to intensify our activity in North Asia by creating Silab North East Asia KK. Opening a sales subsidiary in Japan seemed an obvious and necessary step to take over from our local distributor. Based in Tokyo, the Silab NEA KK team will be responsible for promoting and distributing our natural active ingredients in Japan, as well as maintaining customer relations with our long-standing distributor in South Korea. This strengthened presence will undoubtedly enhance our value proposition based on Nature, Science and Technology, and consolidate our partnerships with our customers and local universities".says Jean-Philippe Cosson, Silab's General Manager for Sales, International Subsidiaries and CSR.

Silab thus maintains its international strategy. Some 60 % of the company's sales are currently exported.

Under the responsibility of Jean-Baptiste Grieu, Regional Sales Manager, the Silab NEA KK team is set to expand in the near future. 

A local stock will be built up in collaboration with a logistics company.

Lumson targets hair care

Lumson - hair care offer

Building on its expertise in skincare and make-up, Lumson enriches its offer with three lines dedicated to the world of hair care, providing a complete turnkey service including bottles, dispensing systems, decoration and accessories.

Slim, Verona and Round are three complete collections - both in terms of materials used and accessories - dedicated to hair care. With 19 solutions available in different sizes, these collections have been created to adapt to the different types of products on the market, from serums to masks, and to respond to the progressive fusion of hair care and skin care (skinification).

Comprising nine bottles ranging from 30 to 400 ml and available in a variety of materials (glass, PET, PE), Slim is a collection with clean, timeless lines ideal, according to Lumson, for those seeking elegance and sophistication combined with functionality and practicality.

Verona is a hair care line featuring PETG bottles to be combined with traditional or precision dispensing systems for professional scalp-focused applications. It offers minimalist-inspired solutions with distinctive design and clean lines, in formats ranging from 50 to 200 ml. 

With its sober colors, soft-touch finish that gives the bottles a gentle touch, and rounded profiles for an elegant, delicate appearance, the Round range is designed for products that are closer to nature. Available with a choice of glass or PE dispensing systems, the 50 to 250 ml bottles are designed for products to be applied directly to the hair or scalp.

A dynamic market

The second-largest beauty market, with a market share of 15 % after skincare (source: Euromonitor 2023), hair care has undergone a radical transformation over the last decade, both in terms of price and product offering, Lumson reminds us. The Italian manufacturer reports that the market is now divided into shampoos and conditioners (38 %), styling products (24 %), coloring products (22 %) and treatments (16 %), while care segments, in particular masks and specific, often holistic treatments, have gained space both on shelves and in daily routines. They have redefined hair care, paving the way for the development of new products and the arrival of new players.

According to Lumson, the data confirms the golden age of hair care and the dynamism of the market, with almost 300 brands in Europe alone: between 2020 and 2023, the value of hair care grew by +$11.9 billion, with retail prices increasing by over 15% and a CAGR of 4.8 %. This growth is attributed to a renewed interest in hair and scalp care, with hair becoming an essential aspect of self-care, alongside diet, exercise and rest. The trend is towards holistic products that address the overall health of hair, mind and spirit, offering sensory and emotional benefits.

Carole Lajous appointed President and CEO of Summit Cosmetics Europe

Carole Lajous appointed President and CEO of Summit Cosmetics Europe

Summit Cosmetics Europe, a company specializing in the distribution of raw materials for the cosmetics industry, welcomes Carole Lajous as its new President and CEO.

Carole Lajous has over 30 years' experience in the raw materials industry. She previously managed Cognis France and Laboratoires Serobiologiques, a producer of natural and green active ingredients for cosmetics and nutrition. She played a key role in the successful integration of Cognis France into BASF, when Cognis was acquired in 2010. 

Carole Lajous subsequently held the position of CEO for various companies. She was also Senior Advisor and independent director on the Board of Roquette Frères, participating in operational missions linked to merger-acquisition projects. 

"Joining Summit Cosmetics Europe allows Carole Lajous to manage a committed team and ensure the growth of this historic company with a deep commitment to maintaining and accelerating partnerships with suppliers and customers."the company says.

The DGCCRF now has sole responsibility for monitoring cosmetics products and establishments

Visual - skin care cream

As of January 1, 2024, the Direction Générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des Fraudes (DGCCRF) is responsible for monitoring cosmetics products and establishments on its own. This control was previously carried out jointly with the Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de santé (ANSM).

The Agence nationale de sécurité sanitaire de l'alimentation, de l'environnement et du travail (Anses) has taken over the cosmetovigilance and risk assessment missions previously carried out by the ANSM. Since January 1, Anses has been responsible for cosmetovigilance and tatouvigilance. These two systems are based on the declaration of undesirable effects caused by the use of cosmetic products and tattoos. These declarations can be made by healthcare professionals, manufacturers and distributors. Other professionals, such as hairdressers, beauticians and tattoo artists, can also report such incidents, as can private individuals. Preventive measures can be taken to protect consumers.

In a table, the French administration summarizes the changes concerning the steps that players in the cosmetics sector must take since January 1, 2024:

site-industries-cosmetiques An automatically generated table showing the different types of marketing.

Table taken from the https://www.economie.gouv.fr.

Connected cosmetics: Blockchain at the service of sustainable development

site-industries-cosmetiques Exploring the potential of the automotive industry in the age of blockchain at IBM World.

As you know, sustainable beauty is becoming a must for cosmetics brands. Recyclable packaging like Asahi KASEI in Japan and natural ingredients, for example, are becoming consumer requirements.

To implement this traceability or prove its commitments to consumers, adopting a digital platform based on blockchain technology is becoming one of the most effective means.

The latest COSMETIC 360 trade show showed that the cosmetics sector is seeking to optimize its environmental impact and boost its CSR approach.

Companies are faced with the challenge of implementing both upstream traceability to ensure the transparency demanded by consumers, and a recycling solution for packaging.

Optimizing environmental impact: Towards Eco-responsible Beauty

The cosmetics industry is well aware of the importance of reducing its ecological footprint. At Cosmetic 360, many companies highlighted major advances in the development of eco-responsible products. Environmentally-friendly formulations, the use of recyclable packaging and the reduction of plastic waste were the focus of attention.

Some companies have adopted innovative approaches, such as using sustainable raw materials from organic farming or implementing energy-efficient manufacturing processes. The cosmetics industry is thus actively committed to minimizing its impact on the planet, while offering quality products.

Boosting CSR: From Beauty to Social Commitment

Corporate Social Responsibility has become an essential criterion for consumers concerned about the ethics of the brands they choose. At Cosmetic 360, numerous companies shared their CSR initiatives, which go beyond the simple production of cosmetics.

Companies in the cosmetics sector are increasingly integrating CSR into their DNA, not only in response to consumer expectations, but also as a proactive approach to making a positive contribution to society.

Traceability, a Pillar of Trust: From Production to Consumption

The traceability of cosmetics is a major challenge, from supply chain to distribution. Consumers now demand total transparency on the origin of ingredients, production methods and working conditions.

Traceability is not only a mark of confidence for consumers, it is also crucial to meeting increasing regulatory standards and ensuring product quality. Cosmetics companies are investing heavily in robust traceability systems to boost public confidence and meet the challenges of counterfeiting.

To implement this traceability or prove its commitments to consumers, one of the best means available to companies is a digital platform based on blockchain :

AT BLOCKCHAIN has developed a traceability and compliance solution for cosmetics products. This platform enables cosmetics companies to monitor their supply chain in real time, prove their marketing commitments, comply with AGEC law requirements, reinforce their CSR policy, combat fraud or counterfeiting, demonstrate their ethical commitment, and thus gain transparency vis-à-vis consumers, and much more.

site-industries-cosmetiques Asahi Kasei's mobile application for sustainable development in connected cosmetics.

An example with Asahi Kasei Pharma working in partnership with IBM Japan to design BLUE PLASTICS-TRANSPARENT SUPPLY, a digital platform that aims to foster a circular economy by tracking the traceability of recycled plastic materials using blockchain technology. Project participants also include Toyama Environmental Improvements, Mobius Packaging and Lion

A QR code on the packaging allows consumers to access blockchain data that confirms the percentage of recycled plastic used and provides details of the recycling process.

Asahi Kasei aims to promote a circular economy and boost consumer confidence in sustainability claims through plastics traceability.

The solution AT BLOCKCHAIN integrating the platform TRANSPARENT SUPPLY IBM Traceability is a digital platform for brand owners, recyclers and packaging manufacturers to securely exchange and record data on the life cycle of recycled plastic. 

The benefits of the solution : 

  • Reinforcing consumer confidence in product claims.
  • Protection against accusations of greenwashing, i.e. making misleading claims about a product's sustainability without being able to back them up with verifiable data and evidence.
  • Empowering consumers to make more informed purchasing decisions
  • The positive long-term impact on changing consumer behavior Product authentication and certification in the supply chain
  • Rapid detection of errors and non-conformities
  • Improving transparency to boost consumer confidence
  • Optimizing logistics processes

Find out more, click here
Contact us, click here.

For further information:

AT BLOCKCHAIN
at-blockchain-software.com
7 rue de la Croix Martre
91120 Palaiseau
Tel: +33 (0)7 67 04 35 44

site-industries-cosmetics A sustainable green plant in a pot containing cubes, promoting the use of blockchain technology for cosmetics.

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