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Global Bioenergies: construction schedule for new plant takes shape

By
The editorial staff
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Global Bioenergies

The provisional timetable for construction and commissioning of the new plant by 2027 is becoming clearer. The production technology used has been decided, and will be based on the "direct route" process, with total integration of the production chain and minimized input requirements. Finalization of the preliminary design, at the same time as signature of the first tranche of financing for the plant, is scheduled for summer 2024. This first tranche will include part of the €16.4 million financing awarded by Bpifrance as part of the France 2030 plan. Once established, the preliminary design will be carried out in order to finalize preparations for construction of the plant, which will take place between 2025 and 2027 on French territory.

A player in industrial biology, Global Bioenergies will bring out of the ground the world's first plant to convert plant feedstocks on a large scale into isobutene derivatives, with special high-performance properties. In cosmetics markets, the products will be marketed under the Isonaturane™ brand with applications ranging from make-up to dermo-cosmetic care. 

The projected schedule for construction and commissioning by 202. Production technology will be based on the "direct route" process, with total integration of the production chain and minimization of input requirements. Finalization of the preliminary design, in conjunction with signature of the first tranche of plant financing, is scheduled for summer 2024. This first tranche will include part of the €16.4 million financing awarded by Bpifrance as part of the France 2030 plan. Once established, the preliminary design will be carried out in order to finalize preparations for construction of the plant, which will take place between 2025 and 2027 on French territory.

Roland Desvignes, Industrial Director of Global Bioenergies, explains: "I joined Global Bioenergies last July to implement this unique technology at the crossroads of industrial biology and green chemistry. The project (...) is progressing well and relies on the articulation of two engineering departments specialized in each of these two fields."

The plant will also begin production of Sustainable Aviation Fuel (SAF), a market for which Global Bioenergies received ASTM certification last June. This step will pave the way for the establishment of multiple, larger-scale plants focused on this application. In this context, the Group recently initiated discussions concerning a production unit of several tens of thousands of tonnes, specifically dedicated to SAF. This unit is scheduled to come on stream in 2030, coinciding with the extension of SAF's European mandate to 6 % for all flights departing from Europe.

A tailor-made solution for precision dosing applications

By
The editorial staff
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Watson-Marlow Mettler Toledo

Watson-Marlow Fluid Technology Solutions, a specialist in pumps and fluid management solutions, and Mettler Toledo, a major global player in precision instrumentation and services, offer a customized dosing solution for biotechnology products. 

A French chemical and biotechnology manufacturer was looking for a precision dosing solution for packaging a biotechnology fluid in 125 ml vials and for batches of 70 to 180 vials, with a filling accuracy of ± 0.5 % controlled by a balance.

To meet these needs, Watson Marlow offers a Flexicon (WMTFS) precision peristaltic pump, the PF7+. This 21 CFR Part 11-compliant pump has been developed for critical aseptic final filling applications. It is characterized by its ability to deliver waste-free batches. The PF7+ is designed to be coupled with a high-precision balance for dynamic recalibration with pump control. Rapid dosing, even with manual filling, is possible with reproducible filling accuracy in line with demand.

The PF7+ advanced filling kit includes a Mettler Toledo analytical balance with an air flow screen and an integrated, adjustable nozzle holder.

A special set-up

In the case of the pharmaceutical laboratory, an existing assembly already included a support and a filter.

"Our customer needed a bespoke solution that did not include a weighing cage, with a larger weighing range than that offered by the PF7+ filling kit scale, and with less accuracy than those generally required in the applications in which our pump is deployed. In particular, it required the use of a final filter downstream of dosing, to guarantee the integrity of their product, and filling with a continuous tube. These conditions, the filter and the continuous tube, greatly disrupted filling accuracy performance, which had to be maintained at 0.5 %. In addition, the customer did not want the system to be computer-controlled.explains Anaïs Soccio-Koestel, Sales Engineer at Watson Marlow France.

A customized filling solution, coupled with a scale with a larger capacity than the one initially proposed, and without a windscreen, was therefore required. Mettler Toledo's New Classic range of precision scales met this need.

A tailor-made solution that extends PF7+ applications

Watson Marlow and Mettler Toledo have developed a tailor-made advanced filling kit that includes a PF7+ pump and a compatible Mettler Toledo scale from the ML range. With a range of 10-2, this scale is ideally suited to the application.

The PF7+ pump is fed by a 50-liter bag containing 6 liters of product. The bag already contains a continuous tube with an internal diameter of 6.35 mm and a thickness of 2.38 mm.

A single-use sartopore 0.2 µm filter is positioned on a holding rack which incorporates a filtration system before the product is injected into the vial. Each vial is placed on the balance to validate its weight.

Anaïs Soccio-Koestel adds: "Our customer requested that the traceability of each bottle be controlled by weight. In this case, and this is what makes our solution so interesting, the scale communicates directly with the pump: it determines the right dose and prevents the filter from interfering with the dosage. It is also connected to a printer, which delivers a printout of the weight of each bottle.

This new kit, consisting of a PF7+ peristaltic pump coupled with a Mettler ML balance, extends the pump's possible applications. It can be used for small-batch dosing with accuracy requirements in excess of 0.5%, applications requiring continuous control, continuous tube use and special fixtures.

A Healthy Microbiome: Holistic Beauty

By
Lallemand
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site-industries-cosmetiques Probiotics promote a healthy microbiome for holistic beauty.

In recent years, the cosmetic industry has witnessed a surge of interest in nutricosmetics. Indeed, the nutricosmetics market is rapidly expanding, reaching a remarkable $6.4 billion in 2021, and is projected to soar to $15.6 billion by 2030. This growth is primarily driven by three major regions: the APAC region (35%), Europe (30%), and North America (15%). As of January 2022, the skin, nails, and hair supplement subcategory on Amazon US has experienced a remarkable 29% year-over-year growth over the previous two years. This surge in interest clearly demonstrates the expanding market for products that enhance skin, nails, and hair health from within.

The Intersection of Cosmetics and Nutrition

Positioned at the intersection of cosmetics and nutrition, nutricosmetics are orally administered nutritional supplements formulated and marketed to help take care of the natural beauty of skin, nails, and hair. Beyond benefits on physical appearance, nutricosmetics aim to promote holistic beauty by nurturing well-being from the inside out.

Delve into the world of dedicated probiotic solutions that unlock beauty from within, shaping the future of beauty rituals.

Embracing a Holistic Approach

In today's beauty landscape, a holistic approach has taken center stage. The In & Out beauty concept, which combines 'In' (supplements) with 'Out' (topical products), is key to achieving true radiance. This holistic approach recognizes that beauty is multidimensional, encompassing elements like a well-balanced diet, an active lifestyle, stress management, natural defenses improvement and nutritional supplements. It's no surprise that 59% of individuals acknowledge the link between skin health and overall well-being. If you have ever experiment skin breakouts during a particularly stressful time, it's not only bad luck - there is a scientific explanation.  

The Microbiota-Gut-Skin Health axis

Recent studies have solidified the connection between gut and skin health. This link is of paramount importance and has far-reaching implications for beauty and wellness. Consider some of the compelling associations that have been uncovered:

  • Acne patients: A significant 54% show alterations in their gut flora, underscoring the gut's influence on skin health.
  • Atopic disorders: Reduced diversity in early-life intestinal microbiota increases the risk of these skin conditions.
  • Inflammatory bowel diseases: Notably, 24% of Crohn's disease patients develop skin disorders, solidifying the gut-skin connection. [1]

It's about recognizing that a well-nourished body reflects on the outside, underlining the importance of nurturing from within.

How Can Probiotics Help?

Probiotics play a crucial role in maintaining gut barrier integrity, modulating the immune response, and enhancing stress resilience. Their actions may reduce oxidative stress and sebum excess, may improve skin barrier function, and may enhance skin microbiota resilience. However, selecting the right probiotic strains is crucial as most health effects are strain-specific and backed by scientific research.

Here are a few examples of documented strains and formula that are particularly suited for skin health and overall wellbeing. Lallemand Health Solutions offer solutions with specific beauty claims, such as "improve skin firmness and texture" and "maintain skin appearance, gloss, wrinkle reduction, and elasticity." This signifies the positive impact probiotics can have on the overall health and radiance of one's skin.

Lacidofil®:

Supported by over 27 positive clinical trials and scientific evidence, Lacidofil® (L. rhamnosus Rosell®-11 and L. helveticus Rosell®-52) has consistently shown its benefits for the gastrointestinal tract, leading to overall well-being. Beyond gut health, it has also had a positive impact on atopic dermatitis/sensitive skin in clinical studies. In two study [Chernyshov 2007 and 2009] Lacidofil® improved symptoms of atopic dermatitis after one month of intake. There was also a significant reduction of SCORAD in 63.3% of patients in the probiotic group taking Lacidofil®, hence improving quality of life. [2]

S. boulardii CNCM I-1079:

With over 100 clinical studies, this probiotic yeast has a century-old legacy. Safe and reliable for all age groups, it offers gut health benefits and has shown positive effects on acne and skin imperfections.

Cerebiome®:

Scientifically documented, Cerebiome® combines L. helveticus Rosell®-52 and B. longum Rosell®-175. It is the most extensively researched psychobiotic, with multiple studies demonstrating its effectiveness in mitigating physical and psychological manifestations of stress and anxiety. It holds health claims in Canada and Brazil for the gut-brain axis. Giving that the link between stress and skin health (this gut-brain-skin axis) is increasingly studied, probiotics are of interest in this area.

Why Choose Probiotics for Beauty?

As awareness grows regarding the profound connection between the gut microbiome, skin health, and overall well-being, more individuals are embracing pre- and probiotic-enriched supplements to enhance their skin health from within. This paradigm shift underscores the link between inner wellness and outer radiance. Probiotics are at the forefront of modern beauty regimes. This choice is driven by several compelling reasons:

  • On-trend Ingredient: Probiotics are riding high on the trend wave, thanks to their close connection with microbiome science, specifically the skin-gut axis.
  • Objectivated Ingredients: Probiotics have earned their reputation through clinical studies that substantiate their efficacy. These studies provide concrete evidence of the tangible benefits they offer.
  • Holistic Approach: What makes probiotics truly unique is their ability to target various segments of health. They cater to multiple aspects of wellness, making them an ideal addition to holistic beauty routines.
  • Innovative and Customized Formulations: Probiotics can be seamlessly integrated with other active ingredients, allowing for the creation of innovative and tailored formulations that cater to diverse wellness and beauty goals.

Lallemand Health Solutions: Probiotic Solutions for Radiant Well-being

Lallemand Health Solutions, a leader in the probiotic industry with 90 years of expertise, offers a range of dedicated probiotics to enhance overall well-being and radiate beauty from within. Strains or strain combination like Lacidofil®, S. boulardiiand Cerebiome® are part of a diverse portfolio of over 40 proprietary probiotic strains. These strains can be tailored to create unique formulations, incorporating additional ingredients such as minerals, vitamins, and prebiotics. Combining probiotics with zinc, for example, contributes to maintaining normal skin. 

As a global leader in the probiotic industry, Lallemand Health Solutions is at the forefront of innovation in the nutricosmetics market and adheres to the highest industry standards and enjoys strong scientific support, with many of its products having gained health claims from local authorities. 

In a world where beauty is increasingly seen as a reflection of inner wellness, nutricosmetics offer the promise of unlocking one's true radiance. By providing probiotics that target well-being on multiple fronts, Lallemand Health Solutions is empowering individuals to discover their most vibrant selves.

Lallemand Health Solutions firmly believe that beauty begins from within and that dietary food supplements play a crucial role in helping individuals feel better and shine brightly on the outside. 

For more information on Lallemand Health Solutions and its range of health applications, please contact us.

Watch our on-demand webcast: Dedicated Probiotics. Beauty from Within

Contact
Marie-Anaïs Faye, Nutricosmetics Sales Manager
Lallemand Health Solutions
[email protected]
lallemand-health-solutions.com

Source:

[1] Mahmud, Md Rayhan et al. "Impact of gut microbiome on skin health: gut-skin axis observed through the lenses of therapeutics and skin diseases." Gut microbes vol. 14,1 (2022): 2096995. doi:10.1080/19490976.2022.2096995

JEONG, Critical reviews in food science and nutrition2016, vol. 56, no. 14, pp. 2331-2337.

BOWE, Beneficial microbes2013, vol. 5, no. 2, p. 185-199.
 

2] Chernyshov 2007. Integrated treatment of infants, patients with atopic dermatitis. Дерматологія [Dermatology] 3: 23-26 

Chernyshov 2009a. B7-2/CD28 costimulatory pathway in children with atopic dermatitis and its connection with immunoglobulin E, intracellular interleukin-4 and 

interferon-gamma production by T cells during a 1 month follow-up. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology 23: 656-659

Chernyshov 2009b. Randomized, placebo-controlled trial onclinical and immunologic effects of probiotic Lacidofil®in infants with atopic dermatitis. Microbial Ecology in Health and Disease 21: 228-232

​

Foams and emulsions: cosmetics in all their forms

By
CNRS Formation Entreprises
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site-industries-cosmetiques A close-up of a white draft.
Wiebke Drenckhan

In both the food and cosmetics sectors, recent innovations are often based on these products. In the cosmetics department, you'll find shaving and styling foams, shampoos and bubble baths, skincare creams and other make-up products. Increasingly, all are available in foam, emulsion or emulsion foam form. 

Matter in all its states

But what exactly is foam? Technically, a foam is obtained by dispersing a volume of gas (usually large) in a volume of liquid (usually smaller). Similarly, an emulsion is the result of dispersing a liquid (often oil) in another non-miscible liquid (often water). In parallel, surfactants or other stabilizing agents (polymers, proteins, solid particles, etc.) need to be added to give these dispersions a sufficiently long life. The science of foams and emulsions lies precisely between physics and chemistry, with formulation playing a major role in establishing the key mechanisms for achieving the optimum shelf life for an application. 

Unique properties for cosmetic applications

The appeal of these dispersions - foams and emulsions - lies in the fact that their properties are unique and very different from those that would be obtained using simple liquid solutions alone. This is particularly striking when it comes to the mechanical (or rheological) properties that characterize the texture of the product: by converting to foam or emulsion form, we can obtain an original material with both solid and liquid behavior, which we describe as viscoelastic and which will depend on the stress applied, i.e. the way in which it is used. In this way, the finished product can be held in the hand without flowing, but also spread easily during application. 

site-industries-cosmetiques A young boy learns to shave with his father in the bathroom, using foams and emulsions from their cosmetics collection.

This intermediary behavior between solid and liquid plays a fundamental role in the sensory perception of the product. Understanding and mastering these sensory aspects is where many of the challenges in innovation lie. Finally, foams and emulsions enable active ingredients to be compartmentalized: lipophilic compounds, for example, can be confined within oil droplets. This compartmentalization enables these agents to be protected over time, then re-injected during use.

Research to understand and innovate

However, despite the large number of products already on the market, certain mysteries still surround the science of foams and emulsions. In particular, the dependence of stability on formulation often remains to be understood. In the current context, there is a strong demand to reduce the number of chemical ingredients in these formulations and to replace them with "greener" ingredients. To innovate in these areas, it is crucial to understand how they work. In addition, current research is seeking to broaden the range of possible foam and emulsion-based materials: more understanding of emulsion foams, gelled foams and emulsions, non-aqueous foams or "water-in-water" dispersions will enable us to move towards new applications.

To help with these various developments, CNRS Formation Entreprisethe CNRS's continuing education organization, is offering a a course designed to pass on current knowledge about foams and emulsions for a non-expert audience. The course is organized at the Institut Charles Sadron in Strasbourg by Wiebke Drenckhan, CNRS Research Director, winner of the CNRS Bronze Medal in 2015 and the Mediation Medal in 2023, as well as the Irène Joliot-Curie Prize for Young Woman Scientist of the Year in 2013, and Arnaud Saint-Jalmes, CNRS Research Director at the Institut de Physique de Rennes, where he has been Deputy Director for the last five years. The two researchers, who have over 25 years' expertise in the field of foams and emulsions, regularly work with companies to support their innovation initiatives. 

The central aim of the course is to develop the right reactions and reflexes for dealing with problems involving foams and emulsions. The aim is to acquire a global, multi-scale vision of this field, in order to understand the relationship between physical and chemical parameters in these materials. The program focuses on the acquisition of fundamental physico-chemical notions on the manufacture of foams and emulsions, their structure, their stability over time and their macroscopic properties. The course relies heavily on experimental sessions, enabling students to discover different characterization techniques.

Liquid foams and emulsions: generation, stability and propertiesfrom May 14 to 16, 2024, a training course offered by CNRS Formation Entreprises.

Advanced real-time liquid monitoring technology

By
The editorial staff
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Collo Analyzer


Finnish deeptech company ColloidTek (Collo) has developed Collo Analyzer, an innovative real-time quality control system for industrial liquid processes. 

Unlike traditional laboratory analysis methods, Collo Analyzer enables instant on-site analysis of liquid quality.

"Collo creates a "liquid fingerprint" of the liquid being analyzed based on its dielectric properties. Each liquid fingerprint is unique, enabling Collo to detect not only individual products, but also minute variations in the analyzed liquid. Thanks to continuous analysis and instantaneous results, Collo can gauge the quality of the liquid at any time".explains Matti Järveläinen, CEO of Collo. 

All it takes is two seconds. The measurement is taken manually on site by dipping the detector into the product, directly on the production line. There's no need to send samples elsewhere; results are available instantly. This is thanks to the EMF (ElectroMagnetic Field) technology and advanced algorithms on which Collo's solution is based. 

"The fingerprint of a liquid is compared with the criteria required by the customer. If anything differs from these criteria, the customer knows immediately and can take appropriate action. This solution reduces the risk of dangerous errors and poor-quality batches, explains Matti Järveläinen. Our ultimate goal is to provide companies with a cost-effective tool capable of enabling them to maintain rigorous quality control over their liquid transformation processes."

Simplified quality control 

Most systems currently available can only analyze liquids with specific viscosity, transparency or other properties. This often means having different analysis systems and detectors at each test point. A complex system with multiple detectors, which is difficult to use and yet does not guarantee effective quality control, becomes necessary. 

Collo Analyzer can be used with thick, transparent or non-conductive liquids. A single sensor is all it takes to measure the quality of all the liquids present in the transformation process.

According to Collo, this solution is able to detect multiple risks or deviations simultaneously. It streamlines complex quality control processes, replacing other tests and covering aspects of safety and quality ignored by other systems. This technology not only speeds up the quality control process, but also enables manufacturers to take immediate corrective action when deviations are detected. This reduces the risk of costly recalls, and enables manufacturers to ensure that every batch of product meets the most stringent quality and safety standards.

Collo was founded in 2017 after extensive scientific research into electromagnetic field measurement technology at the University of Tampere, Finland.

[podcast] Paris Packaging Week 2024: the lights are green

By
editocom
-
site-industries-cosmetiques Crowded Paris Packaging Week.

In this episode, Josh Brooks, co-director of the show, answers our questions. He talks about the conference program, the awards, the bridges between shows and the central theme of CSR. You wanted to eat a beef steak at the show? No way! Red meat will be banned.

And in 2024, the Olympic Games will also be on the agenda...

Eco-socio-designed fragrances with the Flor-Index tool

By
The editorial staff
-
Flor-Index TechnicoFlor

Committed to a CSR approach for over fifteen years, TechnicoFlor, a French, family-owned and independent perfume composition house specializing in the creation of fragrances for the biggest names in perfumery, cosmetics and hygiene, has created Flor-Index, a tool for assessing the environmental and societal impact of perfume formulas at every stage of their development cycle. This tool, recently audited by Afnor Certification, now offers brands the opportunity to propose eco-socio-designed fragrances. Interview with Maxime Gransart, Deputy Managing Director of TechnicoFlor.

Why develop Flor-Index? What's in it for brands?

At TechnicoFlor, we've been genuinely committed to CSR for some fifteen years now. At the same time, we're seeing a real demand from our customers (perfume and cosmetics brands) for transparency in the composition of their formulas. Consumer expectations are also evolving. They no longer want to compromise between responsibility, creativity and quality. It's really important to be able to provide them with concrete, quantitative information about what they're buying. With this in mind, we have created Flor-Index, an innovative tool that enables our perfumers to design eco-socio-designed fragrances and encourages our suppliers to provide us with more data on their raw materials. The perfume industry of tomorrow, if it is to continue to exist, must move towards greater transparency and eco-responsibility! Perfume is no longer natural, but responsible.

What makes Flor-Index innovative?

Flor-Index is the only tool to date capable of measuring the environmental and societal impact of fragrance formulas at every stage of their development cycle, and the only tool whose relevance, transparency and robustness have been audited by Afnor Certification - a world first! With Flor-Index, it's the first time that brands can lay claim to the eco-socio-design of their fragrance formulas. 

Which indicators are taken into account in the measurement process?

From the sourcing of raw materials, through production and transport, to the perfume's end-of-life, the tool analyzes 38 indicators to evaluate eight criteria: the weight of responsible raw materials, the weight of fair-trade raw materials, the content of unnecessary solvents, the energy required for production, the impact of transport, the biodegradability of a formula and the measurement of its toxicity on the environment and health. It's the most complex and robust tool in the industry today. After weighting these elements, the tool assigns the fragrance a score from A to E, working on the same principle as the nutri-score or ecoscore known to the general public. TechnicoFlor's regulatory department then issues a certificate indicating the formula's eco-socio-design rating. An A or B grade indicates that the perfume formula is eco-socio-designed. This is an evolving tool, designed to adapt to changes in regulations and new data on raw materials.

How does the assessment work in practice?

The weight of responsible raw materials is assessed according to several criteria: respect for biodiversity, the transformation process (green chemistry or not) and the type of production (fair trade or not). Thanks to these elements, we can quantify each responsible raw material used. Unnecessary solvent content is a historically taboo subject in the industry (as it is used to reduce the cost of formulas), and we aim to lift the veil by analyzing the weight of this solvent in a formula in complete transparency. To measure the toxicity of a product on the environment, we use criteria established by European regulations. Finally, the energy required for production is linked, for example, to the number of raw materials used in the composition (short or long formula). In 2021, TechnicoFlor will be inaugurating an eco-designed plant in Allauch (13), which is the most automated in its sector and uses very little energy thanks to its gravity-fed weighing system. Our goal is to be 80 % energy self-sufficient within two years.

From tools to eco-socio-designed fragrances, how do you make the leap?

Since the tool was created, all the collections we pro-actively develop, especially for trade shows, are eco-socio-designed. The idea is to show that eco-socio-designed perfumery can be highly creative and sensorial. Our latest collection "Our Daily Sustainable Beauty Routine presented at In-Cosmetics Asia, illustrates this "new" perfumery through a variety of applications (eaux de toilette, shower gels, hand soaps, multi-purpose cleansers and home fragrances). The event also provided an opportunity to present Flor-Index at a conference dedicated to industry professionals; a tool that was very well received by the profession.

Pure Trade dresses Jean-Paul Gaultier's La Belle Fleur Terrible 

By
The editorial staff
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PURE TRADE - JEAN PAUL GAUTHIER - La Belle Fleur Terrible

The bottle of Jean-Paul Gaultier's La Belle Fleur Terrible features embroidery designed in two layers and four parts, created by Pure Trade to reveal a new facet of its expertise.

Pure Trade has succeeded in sewing the different parts of the embroidery together, with consistent orientation for homogeneous positioning.

The company had already produced secondary packaging for the Jean-Paul Gaultier brand, including metal boxes for certain collector's editions.

According to the company, the embroidery on the bottle of La Belle Fleur Terrible highlights its ability to facilitate the development process of brands by providing them with complementary and integrative solutions, from a full-service perspective.

Expanscience announces an organic version of one of its anti-aging active ingredients

By
The editorial staff
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Lupin

"At Expanscience, our environmental commitment is at the heart of our approach. With CO₂llageneer Bio, we combine innovation, naturalness and sustainability to offer our consumers an increasingly responsible beauty solution that respects the skin and our planet", says Armelle Le Peniec, Director of Cosmetic Active Ingredients at Laboratoires Expanscience. 

CO₂llageneer Bio represents an active ingredient combining naturalness and efficacy, meeting the expectations of consumers looking for certified organic and environmentally-friendly products. 

An active ingredient made in France, certified organic and upcycled 

A member of the UEBT (Union for Ethical Biotrade) since 2011, Expanscience is committed to continuous improvement. Relocating our sourcing and revising the extraction process for one of our flagship active ingredients will enable us to meet the expectations of consumers who are concerned about the origin and impact of cosmetic products. 

CO₂llageneer Bio is thus an organic version certified to 95.4 % by Ecocert Greenlife according to the COllageneer Cosmos standard. This new active ingredient is obtained by a CO2 supercritical. 

It is based on a concentration of lupeol, extracted from French sweet white lupin seeds, sourced in Western France. This active molecule is then combined with organic oleic sunflower oil, sourced in France, offering a 100 % made in France active ingredient, in line with the expectations of local, more responsible consumption. 

Derived from a co-product of the agri-food industry, the asset is also part of an upcycling and zero-waste approach.

Unchanged efficiency

Specifications remain identical, offering continuity in the product's benefits. According to Expanscience, CO₂llageneer Bio maintains its proven efficacy.

Testing in vitro have been carried out. They demonstrate the effects of the active ingredient as a well-ageing agent, stimulating collagen synthesis to improve skin elasticity, reshape and firm areas prone to sagging. The active ingredient stimulates the production of high-quality collagen by activating the chaperone protein HSP47 (Heat Shock Protein), contributing to its optimal organization and structure. 

Alfaparf, Naturopera and Superga Beauty take over the activities of the Eugène Perma group

By
The editorial staff
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Eugène Perma

Alfaparf Milano, Naturopera and Superga Beauty have joined forces to bid for the Eugène Perma group, which has gone into receivership. 

The Eugène Perma group (sales €80 million), a specialist in hair coloring and care in supermarkets with its iconic brands (Pétrole Hahn, Eugène Color, Keranove, Nat&Nove Bio, Biorène, Laurence Dumont, Loua), had been experiencing difficulties for several years in the face of the health crisis, inflation and competition from international giants. The group has been in receivership since August 1, 2023.

Alfaparf Milano, an Italian group which distributes hairdressing and beauty products in over 120 countries via some twenty subsidiaries, is adding brands from the hairdressing circuit (Carmen, Solaris, etc.) to its portfolio.

A French SME with 100 employees and estimated sales of €40 million in 2023, Naturopera is taking over Eugène Perma's GMS activities, with brands such as Pétrole Hahn, Eugène Color, Keranove, Nat&Nove Bio and Biorène. Known for its baby and feminine hygiene brands, "Naturopera is writing an exciting new chapter in its history. We are extremely proud to welcome Eugène Perma's emblematic brands. This acquisition marks a major strategic step in our commitment to innovation and quality, reinforcing our position as the leader in "made in France" fragrance hygiene. We are proud to carry on this heritage, combining sustainability and excellence to offer our consumers an unrivalled experience in the world of hygiene, beauty and hair care", say Geoffroy Blondel de Joigny and Kilian O'Neill, founders of Naturopera. 

After opening its ecological baby diaper factory in Hauts-de-France just over a year ago, Naturopera, founded in 2013, was able to count on the support of financial partners (BPIFrance, Caisse d'Epargne, Société Générale) who saw the growth potential of such a takeover. With "PME+" and "BioEd" (Bio Entreprise durable) CSR certification, the young company intends to give priority to natural, eco-designed ingredients. It specifies that transparency towards consumers will be ensured by reworked product compositions. The company will also be supporting local development by promoting "Made in France", working with over 80 % French suppliers and service providers.

Superga Beauty is taking over Eugène Perma's Parchimy plant near Reims. This site includes 12 manufacturing tanks, 10 packaging lines and an in-house laboratory to carry out all process controls, and benefits from an Atex-secured platform. The French "beauty supplier" thus acquires a new tool and integrates expertise in hair care and coloring products to its perfumery and skincare know-how. 

In total, the consortium will maintain the jobs of 213 employees, i.e. 90 % of the current workforce. In this respect, it was the best bidder compared with the other bidders.

"We are three experts in our circuits, three family-run businesses that guarantee continuity and are aligned with the values of the Eugène Perùma Group. We are aware that a great deal of work needs to be done in all three businesses to restore the group's impetus and dynamism. For us, the fact that we are working as a trio is a guarantee of resources and success: each business line is entrusted to dedicated experts who are committed to investing fully in the continuation and maintenance of each business line.explains Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty.

As part of this takeover, Superga Beauty has signed a five-year exclusive production agreement with Naturopera and Alfaparf Milano. Products for the various Eugène Perma brands will continue to be manufactured in France at the Parchimy site, which will become Beauty Champagne Ardenne (BCA). 

In addition to the hair care products traditionally manufactured and packaged in Reims, the group plans to open up the business to subcontracting, particularly in the care sector. The site has the capacity to produce large batches, in excess of ten tons. The stated objective is to add 10 million parts to the plant within the next two years. 

"The Superga Beauty group has an ambitious project, and we are going to demonstrate, as with our previous projects, our strength as well as our willingness to transform a brand factory into a subcontracting plant, while preserving French know-how in cosmetics. This takeover will enable us to immediately increase our production capacity for skincare and hygiene products, and to develop our expertise in hair coloring and hair care.stresses Leslie Bréau Meniger. I have every confidence in the success of this project. We demonstrated our commercial strength with the Cosmeurop takeover project. I believe in subcontracting and its development, and in our customers' desire to develop French manufacturing."

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