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Monday, November 28, 2022
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"From flower to perfumes": perfume creation at the center of multiple challenges

Skilful combination of raw materials through balance and structure, perfume and its different applications are synonymous with unique products capable of addressing the intimate memory of each, his emotions and sensations experienced one day. If the creativity, vision and feeling of the perfumer are decisive, they cannot be enough to meet this challenge.

The perfumer must indeed deal with the continuous contribution of all facets of new innovative raw materials, the ability to meet and sometimes even anticipate the new aspirations of consumers but also adapt to the perpetual and complex changes in regulations.

On the occasion of the conference organized by the Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster, "From flower to perfumes... and aromas: know-how and innovation", these know-how and related challenges will be recalled.

First, the project Héritage(s), histoire vivante des parfumeurs, a unique collection of testimonials collected by the Perfumum Endowment Fund, will be presented by its president Francis Kurkdjian, recently appointed creative director of Parfums Christian Dior. This immaterial, human and living memory, a unique historical corpus for perfume lovers, thus poses a personal and distanced look at perfumery and evokes their vision of the future.

Modern perfumery has tended in recent years to evolve towards a more gourmet and gustatory universe, always more realistic. From warm and gourmet notes such as chocolate, praline, vanilla or caramel to fruity and juicy notes such as raspberry, passion fruit, strawberry or apricot, the expertise of the aromatician takes on its full meaning! Aromaticians are therefore increasingly asked to work with perfumers to help them in their creation of "3D" perfumes. The teams at Robertet, with Emmanuelle Galimberti (aromatician) and Amandine Galliano (perfumer), will take participants on a journey through an olfactory and gustatory universe.

Nevertheless, regulation remains a prerequisite for creation. Authorizations, prohibitions, restrictions feed daily the evolution of the palette of aromaticians and perfumers. Cécile Pinel, General Delegate of Sniaa and Jean-François Goursot will propose a return to the past but also a leap forward towards the future to give a note of what will impact tomorrow's aromatic creation.

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