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Expanscience appoints Sophie Robert-Velut as General Manager for Dermo-Cosmetics, Rheumatology and
Dermatology

EXPANSCIENCE- Management - Market Information

As General Manager of Dermo-Cosmetics, Rheumatology and Dermatology activities, Sophie Robert-Velut's mission is to define the development strategy for Rheumatology and Dermatology and more generally to imagine Expanscience's health offer for the future. She retains her current responsibilities for defining and implementing the strategy of Expanscience's Dermo-Cosmetics activity for the Mustela and Babo Botanicals brands on a worldwide scale.
A graduate of ESCP Europe, Sophie Robert-Velut, 43, has built her career within the L'Oréal group. Since her arrival at Expanscience, Sophie Robert-Velut has successfully led the transformation of the Dermo-Cosmetics business and in particular the ¡conical Mustela brand. The latter accompanies families in respecting the CSR commitments of Expanscience, a B Corp certified company and a company with a mission since 2021.

EXPANSCIENCE2- Management - Market Information

Within the framework of this organization, Konstand Katsianakos, 46 years old, Director of International Subsidiaries of Expanscience, has been appointed General Manager of Markets since May 30, 2022.
Reporting to Sophie Robert-Velut, he is in charge of coordinating the activity of all markets where Expanscience is present via 14 subsidiaries and distributors in more than 100 export countries.
" The appointments of Sophie Robert-Velut and Konstand Katsianakos reinforce the transformation of our Dermo-Cosmetics, Rheumatology and Dermatology activities and support our development in France and internationally. "comments Jean-Paul Berthomé, President of Laboratoires Expanscience.

onTop cosmetics is the first Chinese beauty brand to launch sustainable cosmetic packaging made with Eastman Cristal Renew copolyester.

onTop cosmetics is first Chinese beauty brand to launch sustainable cosmetic packaging made with Eastman Cristal™ Renew copolyester. In collaboration with Eastman and WWP Beauty, onTop brings its innovative Renewal Oil Cream with molecular-recycled packaging to Chinese consumers.

In collaboration with Eastman and WWP Beauty, onTop is offering its innovative Renewal oil cream with molecularly recycled packaging to Chinese consumers.

onTop cosmetics has launched its Renewal Oil Cream, the first of its four major face cream products to feature packaging made from Eastman Cristal Renew copolyester with 50 % of certified recycled content.* onTop cosmetics is the first Chinese beauty brand to use Cristal Renew, a sustainable resin from Eastman's molecular recycling technologies. This industry-leading skincare packaging is the result of close collaboration between onTop's value chain partners - WWP Beauty and molecular recycling pioneer Eastman.

onTop cosmetics is the first Chinese beauty brand to launch sustainable cosmetic packaging made with Eastman Cristal Renew copolyester. In collaboration with Eastman and WWP Beauty, onTop is offering its innovative Renewal oily cream with molecularly recycled packaging to Chinese consumers.

onTop cosmetics is the first Chinese beauty brand to launch sustainable cosmetic packaging made with Eastman Cristal™ Renew copolyester. In collaboration with Eastman and WWP Beauty, onTop is bringing its innovative Renewal Oil Cream to Chinese consumers with molecularly recycled packaging.

onTop strives to create lightweight packaging, which is part of the attitude towards sustainability " said Emma Ni, CEO of onTop. "We actively seek lightweight, beautiful and eco-friendly solutions for formulas and packaging. Based on this mission, we chose to make a sustainable package out of Eastman Cristal Renew for our newly launched cream. Our efforts, however small, are aimed at reducing consumption and environmental impact and ultimately making the earth 'lighter'."

onTop worked with WWP Beauty to develop the primary packaging for version 2.0 of its Renewal Oil Cream, recognized by Mintel as an "innovative product" in January 2022. Mintel cites the product's oil-cream texture, which allows for the addition of lipids like ceramide 2, phytosterols and fatty acids to nourish the skin. The formulation also uses Topnatrol, a patented emulsifying technology based on natural active ingredients rather than synthetic emulsifiers. 

For onTop Renewal Oil Cream, WWP Beauty saw an opportunity to design a package that was as innovative as the product inside. The company was looking for a sustainable package that would take its skincare product to the next level. Eastman's Cristal Renew, made with a molecular recycling technology that uses plastic waste as a raw material instead of fossil resources, met their expectations. These technologies break down plastic waste into its fundamental building blocks and use them to create new, high-performance materials. As a result, Cristal Renew offers brands the same level of performance and design freedom they have come to expect from Eastman resins for luxury cosmetics packaging. It also offers significant environmental benefits, including landfill detour and reduced greenhouse gas emissions.

For WWP Beauty, the collaboration with Eastman and onTop provides a platform to show how the brand can help its customers leverage the latest material innovations to improve the sustainability of its products.

Working with customers to create a space where we can bring sustainable and innovative beauty products to customers globally is at the heart of what we do " said Jennifer Adams, WWP CEO. " This collaboration with onTop and Eastman is a milestone for WWP Beauty in our efforts to advance sustainability in the beauty industry. "

The recycled content of Eastman Renew products is certified by the International Sustainability & Carbon Certification (ISCC Plus), giving brands the transparency and reliability of independent third-party verification of recycled content claims.

We are excited to be involved in the launch of this product with onTop and WWP Beauty and to see how Cristal Renew improves the sustainability of such an innovative product " said Tara Cary, Eastman's market manager for cosmetics and personal care packaging. " By introducing its Renewal oil cream to the market, onTop is leading the industry in sustainability for Chinese consumers. "

*Recycled content is obtained by allocating recycled plastic waste to Cristal Renew using an ISCC certified mass balance process.

L'Oréal unveiled the future of tech-enhanced beauty at Viva Technology 2022

The L'Oréal Group unveiled its vision for the future of beauty at Viva Technology (VivaTech) 2022, Europe's largest event dedicated to the technology industry, held June 15-18 in Paris.

With a strong focus on web3 and online, offline and on-chain beauty experiences, the cosmetics industry leader guided visitors through an exploration of beauty in the web3 and metaverse era. At the same time, innovations to be experimented at home, in a boutique or in a salon were also presented. L'Oréal participated in the sixth edition of VivaTech with a 325 sqm state-of-the-art booth where the group presented immersive beauty experiences developed by the main brands of its portfolio of luxury, consumer, professional and active cosmetic products.

" We are thrilled to be back at VivaTech, where L'Oréal has played a major role since the event's inception in 2016. We've always been at the forefront of beauty technology innovation, and now it's up to us to explore emerging technologies and avenues for engaging a new generation of beauty consumers ", said Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L'Oréal. " L'Oréal's raison d'être, which is to create beauty that moves the world forward, establishes technology as the catalyst for transforming our entire business. "

L'Oréal continues to shape the future of beauty by leveraging more than a century of industry expertise to create unique multi-sensory beauty experiences. Pioneering advances in skin diagnosis, teleconsultation and virtual trials enabled by the web2, L'Oréal is now exploring the possibilities offered by the web3 for beauty experiences for a new generation of consumers. On-chain beauty represents an opportunity to bring together consumers and creators on emerging platforms to participate in a new beauty economy.

" At L'Oréal, we have a deep conviction: the intersection of the powerful forces of science and technology will enable us to invent the beauty of the future The company is a leader in the development of new products and services," said Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President of Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal. " By combining both our century-old scientific knowledge and data expertise with physical and digital technological innovations, we reinvent and augment beauty experiences to meet the desires, dreams and aspirations of our consumers worldwide. "

" The beauty of the future will be physical, digital and virtual. That's why, while keeping our feet firmly planted in the acceleration of web2, we are exploring web3 with a new approach to on-chain beauty ", explained Asmita Dubey, general manager digital and marketing at L'Oréal. " We have prioritized digital in all our efforts and our goal is to enrich the consumer journey, which continues to evolve from O+O (offline + online) to O+O+O (online + offline + on-chain). "

Golgemma present at Biofach Vivaness

Golgemma offers today more than 300 materials such as macerates, hydrolats, natural extracts, most of which are certified Ecocert organic cosmetics, Nop, Cosmos and attested by "Fair For Life" and or "For Life".

Present at Biofach 2022 on booth 8-327 in Hall 8 until July 29, 2022 in Nuremberg (Germany), the brand offers visitors to discover some new products:

- Hydrolat of damascena rose on geogard - hyda0016
Origin: Bulgaria, Morocco
Descriptor : rose
Rose damascena is one of the best known ingredients in perfumery and cosmetics, prized for the sensual quality and sweetness it brings to a composition. The main rose producing countries are Turkey, Bulgaria and Morocco. The bushes bloom once a year, from May to June. Our range of rose hydrolats is based on the sourcing and traceability of high quality raw materials from their farms in Bulgaria and Morocco, where it has its own rose fields and production units. This dual local presence allows them to harvest the flowers by hand and to distill and extract them within 24 hours of picking, in order to guarantee the best quality.

- Hydrolat of damascena rose on leucidal - hyda0035
Origin : Bulgaria, Morocco
Describer : Rose
Leucidal is a multifunctional antimicrobial ferment of stabilizing products of natural origin. Its Leucidal hydrolats are certified organic at 97,0% by Ecocert Greenlife according to the Cosmos standard. Golgemma uses Leucidal in the preparation of its hydrolats because its use gives it the opportunity to offer a range of preservative-free hydrolats with the same minimum durability date as the preserved hydrolats, i.e. 2 years. It is therefore a particularly relevant alternative to the synthetic preservatives used in cosmetics, for its customers who are looking for floral waters of 100% natural origin.

- Hydrolat of rose centifolia on leucidal - hyda0044
Origin : Morocco
Descriptors : Rose Note, Powder, Fruit
Native to the Caucasus and Iran, the Rose centifolia appeared at the end of the 16th century following a mutation of Rosa gallica. It then spread to France, in the Grasse region, where it was cultivated for its exceptional essence. Along with Rosa damascena, it is one of only two botanical varieties of roses grown for the perfume industry. Although the Centifolia Rose is an emblematic raw material of the Grasse region, for which it has acquired a reputation.

TechnicoFlor launches FlorIndex, a unique ecodesign tool for perfume formulas

TechnicoFlor, a French, family-owned and independent perfume composition house specialized in the creation of perfumes for the biggest names in perfumery, cosmetics and hygiene, launches FlorIndex, a tool for the eco-design of perfume formulas, a real innovation in the profession.

Created by TechnicoFlor's teams, accompanied by ecodesign experts, FlorIndex aims to evaluate the impact of the formulas created by the group's perfumers, mainly on the environment, but also on the societal level and the
health. It is the only tool that is able to measure the environmental impact at almost every stage of the fragrance development cycle: from the sourcing of raw materials to the end of the fragrance's life, including formulation, production and transportation. " By choosing 38 indicators to evaluate 9 criteria, themselves divided into 3 main stages, we have built the most complete tool to date "explains Maxime Gransart, deputy general manager of TechnicoFlor.

The criteria used include the weight of responsible raw materials, CMRs and endoctrinian disruptors, the weight of the solvent, the energy required for production and the impact of transport. But also the biodegradability of a formula or the measurement of its toxicity on the environment and health. The other great strength of FlorIndex lies in the fact that this tool is scalable: it can easily adapt to regulatory changes and integrate future new criteria.

" Today's consumers have different requirements: if they don't want to compromise on efficiency, sensoriality or creativity, they are now looking for products that are healthier, greener and more natural. For them of course, but also for
also for the environment. This is why they ask for more transparency on the composition of the products they use, whether in cosmetology or perfumery
"says Maxime Gransart. TechnicoFlor has developed FlorIndex to meet this double requirement - more responsible consumption and transparency.

The result? A complete tool in the form of an ecoscore, giving the perfume a grade from A to E. The final score and that of the different stages of its development cycle are visualized so that the consumer has all the necessary data for his
understanding. And that's not all: " with the aim of constant improvement, perfumers also have access to the possible points on which they can make progress in order to move towards an ever more responsible creation "concludes François Patrick Sabater, president of TechnicoFlor.

Hebelys wins Ringier Technology Innovation Award

Hebelys, a biotechnological active ingredient developed by Greentech, received a Ringier Technology lnnovation Award, one of the most prestigious prizes in the Chinese cosmetics active ingredients market.

The Ringier Awards recognize innovative and promising active ingredients for the Chinese market. They are assessed by a jury on 4 criteria: efficacy/scientific data, safety, cost-effectiveness and sustainability.

This award for Hebelys is a positive signal for French biotechs, and attests to the value of a holistic approach to skin care. Hebelys is an active ingredient derived from advanced biotechnologies, designed according to a systemic approach, specifically to meet the cutaneous and emotional needs of women of the silver generation, or to accompany women towards positive ageing from their fifties onwards, like the guardian of their golden years.

Origin

Ferment of Sphingomonas sp. a golden extremophile microorganism capable of surviving in stressful environments thanks to its high metabolic plasticity, obtained by optimized fermentation (metabolic orientation).

Mechanisms of action

Hebelys targets the mechanisms that accelerate skin ageing: oxidative stress and cellular senescence pathways (p21/p16) leading to the appearance of "zombie" cells. It limits SASP (senescence-associated secretory phenotype), notably the secretion of pro-inflammatory factors, thus helping to limit the deleterious effects of "zombie" cells. What's more, Hebelys has a rejuvenating effect on the dermal matrisome, creating an environment with a rejuvenating effect on cells.

Benefits: sublimates skin and emotions

Hebelys offers a holistic approach to mature skin care, acting on both :

- 4 physical impacts of aging on the skin: smoothes wrinkles, brightens and evens skin tone, improves texture and tones skin;

- 2 cognitive impacts: boosts self-esteem and positive emotions.

Shiseido, Sekisui Chemical and Sumitomo Chemical collaborate to establish a circular economy for plastic cosmetic containers

Shiseido Company, Limited (Shiseido), Sekisui Chemical Co, Ltd (Sekisui Chemical) and Sumitomo Chemical Co, Ltd (Sumitomo Chemical) are to launch a joint initiative to establish a circular economy for plastic cosmetic containers, in which used plastic cosmetic containers are collected, converted into resources and materials without sorting, and recycled into plastic cosmetic containers.

Cosmetics containers are made from a wide variety of plastics, as emphasis is placed on content protection, ease of use and design. As a result, it's difficult to sort cosmetics containers for recycling, making it a major challenge to recycle them into plastic resources. To solve this problem, Shiseido, Sekisui Chemical and Sumitomo Chemical have agreed to collaborate in setting up a new system for collecting used plastic cosmetic containers and recycling them into new cosmetic containers, drawing on their respective expertise.

Shiseido will implement a new collection system for plastic cosmetic containers in retail stores, and use recycled polyolefin (1) for its cosmetic containers. Sekisui Chemical will use BR ethanol (2) technology to convert used plastics into ethanol, a raw material for plastics, by turning combustible waste into gas without sorting it, and converting the gas into ethanol using microbes. At the same time, Sumitomo Chemical will manufacture ethylene (3) from this ethanol using renewable ethanol-to-ethylene technology, and produce polyolefin products from the ethylene of equivalent quality to conventional polyolefins using fossil resources.

The three companies will drive this cross-sector alliance forward, while calling on related industries and businesses to join the effort, and strive to create a circular economy.

(1) Polyolefin: Generic term for certain types of plastic (synthetic resins), such as polyethylene and polypropylene.

(2) BR ethanol technology: A technology that gasifies combustible waste accumulated in unsorted waste disposal facilities and converts the gas into ethanol using microbes without the application of heat or pressure. BR stands for biorefinery.

(3) Ethylene: A raw material for synthetic resins such as polyethylene and for organic compounds.

Important product recalls for micro-problems

Catch microbes before they become a problem and work to implement a microbial contamination control strategy. The view of Anne Wagner, PhD, Technology and Market Development Manager for Charles River's Microbial Solutions division.

Manufacturing is often seen and talked about in terms of its efficiency. We've all seen those news reports or commercials showing conveyor belts with bottles filled and packed in seconds. Speed and efficiency are essential to manufacturing, but it all falls apart if it's not based on product quality.

Consider the manufacturing of household and personal care products. These are not "sterile" businesses, but non-sterile does not mean non-quality. One of the biggest antagonists to consumer product safety is microbial contamination. If microbial contamination occurs in your plant, a series of events are triggered to respond, sanitize and remediate the problem, costing time and money. But sometimes the contamination goes undetected and reaches the market, causing a recall with a larger, broader impact. From 2014 to 2019, the vast majority of FDA-requested recalls-78 %-were due to microbial contamination (see illus). Safety Gate, the EU's early warning system, has also detected microbial contamination issues over the years. Not all microorganisms are pathogenic, but products must be free of microorganisms that cause damage.

Notorious culprits behind recent product recalls

Several high-profile incidents of microbial contamination have led to product recalls in recent times. These include Pluralibacter gergoviae and Cronobacter sakazakii. Pluralibacter (Enterobacter) gergoviae is a bacterium commonly found in water. It is classified as an opportunistic pathogen of low risk to healthy people, but can cause infection in people with weakened immune systems. P. gergoviae is of particular interest to the consumer products industry because of its acquired ability to escape common cosmetic preservatives. A publication by M. Periame in the Journal of Applied Microbiology revealed that P. gergoviae has evolved so well that it now has multiple mechanisms, including detoxifying enzymes, flagellin expression, and altered cell membrane structure, to survive in the presence of common cosmetic preservatives. As microorganisms like P. gergoviae become more "intelligent", we must also adapt to keep them out of consumer products.

Another notorious microorganism that has made its way into food and consumer products is Cronobacter sakazakii. Like P. gergoviae, it is also an opportunistic pathogen. In fact, these two microorganisms were previously in the same genus, Enterobacter, but were later classified into separate genera as taxonomy improved. Cronobacter sakazakii was discovered from human clinical isolates and was found to be resistant to desiccation. C. sakazakii has been found in domestic environments and foods. Infections have been reported in elderly and immunocompromised individuals and it is also a high-risk organism for infants when it is found in and contaminates infant formula. In a recall notice issued by the FDA in March 2022, a major producer of powdered infant formula discovered Cronobacter sakazakii in its product and then in its manufacturing facility, resulting in a massive recall and supply chain issue.

Contamination of infant formula with C. sakazakii can put infants at risk for infection, sepsis, meningitis, and necrotizing enterocolitis. 7 Proposed sources of C. sakazakii may be from poor manufacturing practices and contaminated raw materials or from human sources.

Test early and still upstream for microbial contamination

Microbial contamination is not necessarily homogeneous in the product and can have varying rates of growth, so you must be careful not to miss it. Unfortunately, even with final product testing, microbes can go undetected. Testing earlier in the manufacturing process and further upstream to ensure raw material quality and water purity, as well as implementing effective cleaning practices and good manufacturing practices can have a significant positive impact on reducing microbial contamination. These practices are all part of good industrial hygiene designed to find the source of a problem before it gets out of control.

To make a simple analogy, it's like going to the dentist every six months for a regular checkup. By looking early, you can spot a small cavity and fill it before it gets worse. But if you don't spot it and ignore it, that cavity can turn into a painful root canal. Preventive measures can keep small problems from getting bigger.

Recall is the worst-case scenario, but microbial contamination can impact all facets of a business. When a product fails microbial release testing, corrective action is costly, revenue is lost, and manufacturing plants can be shut down, significantly impacting the company's supply chain. In the case of a recall, the same monetary losses occur, but the impact is broader, with very public notifications, and depending on the microbes, the contamination can cause consumer illness and even, in some tragic cases, death. Customers demand quality and it is the manufacturer's responsibility to deliver on that promise of quality. This means catching germs before they become a problem and implementing a microbial contamination control strategy, which means monitoring your environment with modern technology to detect microbial contamination more quickly and accurately. By implementing all of these safeguards, you ensure that your product is of higher quality and has a safety profile that you can guarantee to your customer.  

The Palace of Versailles creates the Perfumer's Garden thanks to the patronage of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Maison Francis Kurkdjian has become a patron of the Château de Versailles to support the creation of the Perfumer's Garden. Located in the Châteauneuf orangery, in the heart of the Trianon estate, this garden will bring together hundreds of floral essences and will open its doors in the spring of 2023.

The result of an exceptional synergy between the Trianon gardeners and Francis Kurkdjian, the Perfumer's Garden will present hundreds of fragrant essences in the spirit of the 17th century Trianon gardens.

Historical plants (roses, jasmines...), some with original smells (chocolate, apple...), others with bad smells and "silent" flowers such as hyacinths, peonies and violets will compose this exceptional garden.

Visitors can also learn about the history of perfume at the court of Versailles. From the 17th century, when Louis XIV had the Porcelain Trianon built, which later became the Grand Trianon, flowers became fashionable and the gardens of Trianon were abundantly supplied with flowers with strong perfumes. At the same time, perfumes became the object of a real craze at the court of Versailles, which became, at the end of the 17th century, the cradle of the profession of perfumer.

Francis Kurkdjian's career has long been intimately linked to the Palace of Versailles. After training at the Versailles perfumery school, he reinterpreted Marie-Antoinette's perfume "Sillage de la Reine" a few years later, based on historical documents. In 2006, Marc Chaya - co-founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian - and Francis Kurkdjian worked together to create the olfactory installation "Soleil de Minuit" for the Versailles Off festival. Finally, during the Grandes Eaux Nocturnes 2007 and 2008, the perfumer created an olfactory experience in the gardens of the Château.

With the Perfumer's Garden, visitors will discover Versailles in a different light thanks to a bucolic visit in the heart of a garden that was previously closed to the public.

Albéa underlines its commitment to circularity

At the PCD trade show, Albéa is reiterating its "reduce.reuse.recycle" program. On the stand, the team will be presenting eco-responsible solutions combining aesthetics and functionality.

Albéa Tubes: reducing plastic use by cutting weight

Albéa is showcasing EcoFusion Top, the two-in-one solution specially designed to visualize material savings. Fusion of the tube head reduces the weight of the tube by 55 % compared with a standard tube - with an equivalent benefit in terms of the packaging's carbon impact. The system is manufactured in HDPE to guarantee mono-materiality and recyclability. EcoFusion Top is available with a wide range of skirts for laminated and extruded tubes.

Albéa Tubes will also be presenting an extensive range of recyclable PE caps, taking another step towards its goal of achieving 100 % of recycled tubes by 2025. Albéa's PCR platform offering tubes with different PCR percentages - from 30 % to 100 % - and the new generation of Creenleaf laminated tubes ready for recycling will also be among the solutions highlighted this year.

Albéa Cosmetics & Fragrance: Desirable and responsible packaging

Albéa is accelerating the use of post-consumer recycled (PCR) materials in its rigid cosmetics packaging to reduce the environmental impact of using virgin raw materials.

One of the latest examples is Breizhstick, a four-piece stick made of single-material polypropylene (PP), ready to be recycled and meeting several beauty pack criteria such as lightness, shape differentiation and mechanical resistance. The name Breizhstick is a nod to the Breton identity, as it is manufactured in Plouhinec, Albéa's European center of excellence for lipsticks. The first all-PP guided stick, its components perfectly match the creamy formulas of lip balms and lipsticks.

The team will also be presenting a wide range of PCR single-material jars for skincare creams, made from full PP and therefore ready for recycling. Another PCD novelty: a unique collection of flexible mascara brushes made in Albéa Bottanuco, for extra-gentle application while adding volume and definition.

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