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Laboratoires Expanscience make their "American dream" a reality

Laboratoires Expanscience - Foundation

Expanscience, an independent French pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetics laboratory, is strengthening its development in the United States, a key growth market for its Actifs Cosmétiques business.
Expanscience currently generates almost 54% of its sales internationally through its 16 sites and distribution network in 90 countries, including 17 for its Cosmetic Active Ingredients business.
The challenges of the active cosmetics market in the US, where Expanscience has more than 50 customers including prestigious brands in the cosmetics industry, have led the laboratory to take over direct management of the US market from a distributor.

Noreza Papin, Area Manager with particular responsibility for the US market, will take full responsibility for business development in this territory from July 1, 2017.
"The American market is based on naturalness, CSR commitment and strong scientific data, to which Laboratoires Expanscience responds," explains Noreza Papin, Area Manager.

For their first appearance at Supplier's Day 2017 (New York City), Laboratoires Expanscience won the "Sustainability Award", which recognized the development of its Passioline cosmetic active designed with respect for Man and the environment. The award recognizes both Expanscience's R&D expertise in plant extraction and its eco-design approach to its cosmetic actives.
"Our new location in the United States is part of our commitment to strong growth in our business. We are focusing on innovation, geographical development and our ongoing commitment to CSR," emphasizes Armelle Le Peniec, Cosmetic Active Ingredients Director. "With the launch of an average of two new cosmetic active ingredients per year, and a stronger presence in key markets such as the USA, Expanscience is strengthening its position as the benchmark supplier of responsible plant-derived cosmetic active ingredients on an international scale", she concludes. Reporting to the Cosmetic Active Ingredients Division, Noreza Papin will be based in New York at the headquarters of Expanscience Laboratories Inc.

The PASS cluster commits to the issue of pesticides

Cosmetics industry - Liquid

Pesticides are still a hot topic. For the PASS Competitiveness Cluster, this is a major topic addressed since 2015 via a collective action carried out with 11 companies in the aromatic and cosmetics industry. Multi-residue pesticide analysis methods are widely described in the literature and well mastered by analytical laboratories for matrices such as water and fruit and vegetables. This is not the case for essential oils, whose analysis represents a complex challenge. That's why the PASS Pole has produced a practical guide to the determination of pesticides in essential oils, to help you get to grips with all the subtleties involved.

A practical guide to dosing pesticides in essential oils
This guide is the result of the first pesticides collective action carried out between 2015 and 2017. It is the result of the scientific expertise of 11 companies in key sectors of the value chain. It brings together the information essential for deciphering the analysis bulletin and interpreting the results, to help companies improve their understanding of the pesticide issue and their possible presence in extracts.
This guide is available to companies free of charge, on request from Pôle PASS.

The PASS cluster pursues its commitments

On the strength of its first edition, the PASS Competitiveness Cluster, supported by the French government and the Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur Regional Council, is launching a new collective action, starting in September 2017.
This collective action is aimed at companies in the sector who wish to make a commitment to guaranteeing safe, environmentally-friendly products. It targets companies looking for tools and arguments on the issue of pesticides to support their approach to all stakeholders.
This second action will enable us to assess the nature and extent of pesticide contamination in the different types of natural extracts on the market.
Its aim is to carry out a sanitary analysis of a sector (to be defined) at the level of the main production basins.
It aims to provide a methodological framework, an analysis tool and an electronic application combining a pesticide database.

TNT Global Manufacturing produces the hood for Jean Paul Gaultier's new women's collection

Perfume - Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Eau De Parfum

To meet Puig's requirements, TNT Global Manufacturing had to rise to the technical challenge of producing the zamak hood in a single piece.
This champagne-gold galvanized zamak hood is the result of a complex production process. It combines industrial know-how, with complex mold demolding kinematics, and a virtually artisanal finish, with several successive polishing stages.
This cheeky hood is the fruit of a comprehensive and pro-active partnership between the Puig and TNT Global Manufacturing development teams.
4 years old, 12 employees, sales of 14 million USD in 2016, TNT Global Manufacturing confirms the excellence of its know-how. Among the materials it uses successfully, zamak is particularly well suited to the world of perfume, cosmetics and make-up, thanks to its multiple properties: stability, malleability, strength, hardness and dermatological compatibility.

Christine Laymard, new FEBEA Director of Public Affairs and Communication

Franka Potente - Run Lola Run

Patrick O'Quin, President of the FEBEA, entrusts the management of public affairs and communications to Christine Laymard. She takes over from Agathe Cury, who has held the position since 2010, as of July 10, 2017.
After ten years at the French National Assembly, Christine Laymard was Chief of Staff at ADEME in 2008. She then managed the ANIA's institutional relations before taking over as CEO of the Association des Maires des Stations de Montagne (ANMSM) in 2010. Christine has a background in law, complemented by a post-graduate diploma (DESS) in Environmental Management (Université de Nice - Sophia-Antipolis).
"Her excellent knowledge of legislative and institutional processes, her sensitivity to environmental issues and her mastery of communications will enable us to continue the FEBEA's work of openness and education. At the heart of the cosmetics industry's broad ecosystem, Christine Laymard will further strengthen our ties with public authorities, associations, the media, scientists, beauty and health professionals, distributors and consumers", rejoices Patrick O'Quin, President.
As for Agathe Cury, she will be heading up a trade association in the food sector. "We would like to thank her for her talent and commitment to the cosmetics sector, and for the significant advances she has made. We wish her every success in her new role," adds Patrick O'Quin.

Novacap signs agreement to acquire Chemoxy International

Laboratory - Solvent in chemical reactions

Novacap S.A.S ("Novacap"), a global player in the pharmaceutical and chemical industries, announces that it has signed an agreement to acquire Chemoxy International Ltd ("Chemoxy"), a contract manufacturer of environmentally-friendly specialty chemicals and solvents.
Based in the UK, Chemoxy operates two multi-purpose production sites in Middlesbrough and Billingham. Chemoxy currently employs 150 people and in 2016 recorded sales of £42 million.
Building on its position in the contract manufacturing of specialty products and solvent recycling, Chemoxy also offers its own product range, with a wide range of low-toxicity, environmentally-friendly solvents, as well as specialty ingredients for personal care.
Chemoxy is present in many markets, including pharmaceuticals, personal care, flavors and fragrances, human food and animal nutrition, environment, surface coatings and lubricant additives.
"Chemoxy is an innovative company with a proven ability to build long-term relationships with its customers and develop new markets and products, which is a perfect fit with Novacap's values and ambition," says Ian Stark, CEO of Chemoxy.
"The acquisition of Chemoxy fits in perfectly with our growth strategy and will strengthen our offering of resilient, high value-added specialty products. By leveraging our joint research and development capabilities, this acquisition will enable Novacap to accelerate its development towards high value-added products and better meet our customers' expectations", says Pierre Luzeau, CEO of the Novacap group.
Completion of this acquisition is subject to approval by the antitrust authorities.

Strand Cosmetics Europe presents 2 stars of the 0 flaw complexion

Cosmetics industry - Face powder

New Skin Perfect Touch is a highlighter with a creamy, gliding texture, to be used in small touches to add radiance and light to make-up. Its texture melts on application thanks to its remarkable glide, giving way to a velvety, comfortable finish.
Apply to the face, using a small sponge, beauty blender or fingertips, dabbing onto light-catching areas.

Golden Glow can be used alone and/or in combination with foundation. Its ultra-fluid, low-coverage, subtly pearlescent texture melts easily into the skin for a glowy effect, and blends easily with foundation to make it radiant.
Golden Glow is a concept product offering customized make-up for a radiant hue. A special feature is the discreet effect of the mother-of-pearl, which is very fine and has no glitter effect.
Apply all over face, alone or mixed with foundation. Apply dabs to light-catching areas.

The 5 winners of the Cosmebio Trophies for Cosmetic Excellence 2017-2018

Perfume - Beauty

Cosmebio had the pleasure of awarding the 2017-2018 Cosmebio Trophies for Cosmetic Excellence at its General Meeting (Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris) on June 22, 2017. This fourth edition - reserved for its members - rewards the alliance between beauty and ethics.

This year's selection took place in two stages: stage 1era was to study cosmetic innovation from 3 angles: technological innovation, environmental innovation and social innovation. The 2nde required the quality of the cosmetic to be assessed by a panel of 60 consumers and professionals (press and distributors) according to minimum satisfaction thresholds (attractiveness, efficacy, sensory analysis).

Sixty consumers (organic and non-organic) were recruited on the basis of applications, and 9 professional companies were selected by the Association: Botanic, La Vie Claire, Mademoiselle Bio, Biocoop, Version Femina, Féminin Bio, Parashop, l'Eau Vive and l'Observatoire des Cosmétiques.

This year, out of 33 applications received, 15 companies were selected for the testing phase. 5 organic cosmetics were awarded the Cosmebio Trophy for Cosmetic Excellence 2017-2018: "Matifying regulating fluid" from the brand Centifolia"
"The brand's surgras soap with organic hemp Fun'Ethic"
"Emollient face and body cream - Dermabébé des Laboratoires Téane"
"donkey milk soap from the brand The Corvette"
"Chelidoine foot lotion from the brand Marlay cosmetics"

 

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Industries Cosmétiques

Symrise receives the "Extraordinary Fragrance" award at the 2017 FiFi Awards

Perfume - perfume

Symrise's Fine Fragrance Division has won the Fragrance Foundation's prestigious "Fragrance Extraordinaire" award for Poppy Soma, a fragrance from Quartana Parfums' Les Potions Fatales line.

The "Parfum Extraordinaire" award is the only award given by the Fragrance Foundation that truly celebrates the art of perfume creation. Each fragrance house can select and submit a creation from its previous year's launches. The fragrances are then blindly evaluated by a panel of olfactory experts from fragrance suppliers and manufacturers. From the selections, one fragrance is chosen to receive this prestigious award.

For two years, Symrise perfumers Emilie Coppermann and Dave Apel worked together to create Poppy Soma. This fragrance is part of the Les Potions Fatales collection, which explores the treacherous beauty behind nine of the world's most poisonous flowers. This smoky, narcotic and spicy amber oriental floral scent blends Sichuan pepper, curry leaf, red peppers, black gardenia, jasmine sambac, red rose, incense, labdanum, tuberose, styrax and musk tonquin. A portion of the proceeds from sales of this fragrance will benefit the American Association of Poison Control Centers (www.aapcc.org)
"I am thrilled with the creativity of our perfumers who have created a true masterpiece for Quartana Parfums," said Achim Daub, President Scent & Care at Symrise. "Winning the Fragrance Foundation's most prestigious award is a true honor for us and underscores our mission to create a better life through fragrance. A big thank you to everyone who contributed to this extraordinary achievement!"

Emilie Coppermann, Master Perfumer: for over 20 years, Emilie has worked for the most prestigious fashion and designer brands. Her success is based on her ability to follow women's intuition. Her work has been rewarded several times by her peers and recognized by institutional awards such as the Lalique Luxury Talent Award in 2011.

David Apel, VP Senior Perfumer: In love with captivating oils, smooth liquids and mesmerizing solid resins, his explorations of perfumery allow him to have and exercise a unique artistic style. David was also heavily involved in the development of the famous Bases De Laire in the 21st century.

Joseph Quartana: Joseph is the founder of Six Scents and the former Seven New York fashion boutique. Quartana Parfums is a new high-end fragrance line in the Six Scents portfolio that explores singular themes through a series of luxurious, limited edition fragrances.

Cosmetic Victories 2017: Cosmetic Valley awards young talents

Cosmetic Valley - Cosmetics industry

Launched two years ago by Cosmetic Valley and supported by an endowment fund set up in partnership with ESSEC, the Cosmetic Victories award two prizes: the Academic Prize and the Industry Prize. 200 projects were received this year from all over the world. These projects were submitted by scientists, industrialists, students, researchers, and managers of start-ups, small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), and included innovations in all areas of the perfumery and cosmetics industry: ingredients, formulation, testing, processes, packaging, chemistry, biotechnology, digital and distribution.
60 applications were examined and 6 were selected by the selection committee (3 per category).
The winners of each of the two prizes are chosen by a jury of qualified experts, including executives from the world's leading cosmetics groups, institutional players involved in supporting and financing innovation, researchers and start-ups.

The awards ceremony took place on June 22 at the LVMH Group headquarters in Paris, in the presence of Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley, Jean-Luc Ansel, founder and CEO, jury members and numerous guests.
The winner of the Industrial Prize is Chloé GUERINa young second-year student at the Ecole de Biologie Industrielle de Cergy (EBI), and her working group for her Zéo projectan absorbent powder that dries hair 100% naturally and ultra-fast.

The Academic Prize was awarded to Eric RobertCNRS research director associated with the GREMI laboratory (joint venture between the University of Orléans and CNRS) for the project PlasmaJets, plasma-based equipment for anti-aging skin treatments using cold beams.

Winners receive a cash prize of 10,000 euros each, as well as support from the competitiveness cluster Cosmetic Valley which will include a presence at the international cosmetics innovation trade show Cosmetic 360 and support from the Cosmet'up, dedicated to accelerating innovative projects in the perfume and cosmetics industry.

 

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