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Global Cosmetics Cluster, international network of cosmetics clusters

site-industries-cosmetiques Logo of the global cosmetics cluster.

Fifteen associations from five continents launch the first official international network of cosmetics clusters, Global Cosmetics Cluster, a gateway to internationalization for SMEs.

Some 15 national cosmetics and fragrance clusters and associations announced the official launch of the Global Cosmetics Cluster, the worldwide network representing the entire beauty industry value chain: ingredients, formulation, manufacturing, packaging, finished products, distribution and logistics, engineering/machinery tools, assembly lines, testing and analysis/quality control, services, research and training.

The industry was valued at $380.2 billion in 2019 and is expected to reach $463.5 billion by 2027. The growth of the cosmetics market is driven by the increasing awareness of the importance of beauty and wellness among the female population and the attractiveness of the industry to female entrepreneurs and workforce. The beauty market is innovative, dynamic and progressive, contributing to the improvement of lifestyle, in addition to being aided by a steadily increasing per capita income in emerging countries1

The new entity includes 15 founding members, representing more than 3,700 companies on five continents. The new association's board of directors is chaired by Cosmetic Valley (France), with Beauty Cluster (Spain) as treasurer and Canadian Cosmetics Cluster as secretary, and completed by Cosmetics Cluster UK.

According to Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley: "Global Cosmetics Cluster was initiated and launched by Cosmetic Valley in 2016 to federate our strengths and resources, share best practices in cosmetics and work on joint projects. And this process will be all the more important in the context of the health crisis that brings new challenges, promoting a new balance of power in the cosmetics sector globally, with new competitors, but also new opportunities. The challenges are difficult to overcome. We must face them together. "Global Cosmetics Clusters was set up to empower each of its members and make us collectively stronger. I am very tempted to quote Henry Ford, the emblematic figure of a previous industrial revolution who said: coming together is a beginning, staying together is progress, working together is success. Let's work together and strengthen our cooperation!"

In 2019, its members decided to structure themselves into working groups with the goal of becoming an official association, which has now been fully realized. In 2020, a new branch, Global Cosmetics Cluster-Europe, was created with the support of the European Commission's COSME program.

The goal of the new meta cluster is to increase international collaboration, both for business and for research and innovation projects, by creating networking and partnership opportunities, thus helping its members to grow.

Global Cosmetics Clusters Members 1- Management - Market info

1 https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/cosmetics-market

Sulapac jar of organic origin for the new i+m deodorant cream

site-industries-cosmetiques Cream and eggs are placed in a white bowl.

Berlin-based i+m has chosen Sulapac Nordic Collection by Quadpack for the latest additions to its natural cosmetics range.

Award-winning German brand i+m has launched a new product in its "We reduce!" line. The brand has launched its rose cream deodorant in an innovative sustainable packaging: the 30 ml jar from the Sulapac Nordic Collection by Quadpack, the international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products.

Made from compostable biobased material that biodegrades without leaving behind microplastics, this packaging was developed by Quadpack to the highest sustainability standards. "Quadpack has been a partner for us from the outset, helping us to make great strides in sustainable packaging. We had been looking for a plastic-free alternative for a long time, and the Sulapac jar offers all the advantages of plastic, while being compostable and made from renewable raw materials", explains Jörg von Kruse, Managing Director of i+m.

With a proud history of fair trade and vegan skincare products, i+m has won three sustainability awards for its products. The "We reduce!" line was the latest finalist for the German Sustainability Award Design 2021, thanks to its plastic-free packaging and certified natural cosmetics. Taking a holistic approach to the beauty sector, integrating ecology, animal welfare and the social economy, i+m chooses its partners based on their ability to develop the "deeply sustainable" cosmetics of the future.

Sulapac Nordic Collection by Quadpack pots fit the concept perfectly: made from wood and plant-based binders, biologically recyclable raw materials, the range offers a decisive and innovative approach to the challenge of plastic waste.

Pierre Fabre announces gradual return to normal operations after cyberattack

site-industries-cosmetiques Cyberattack, Pierre Fabre+ activities

Following the cyber attack suffered by the Pierre Fabre Group on March 31, IT remediation operations have enabled the company's main operations to gradually return to normal.  

Following the resumption of distribution activities on April 15, the Group's main plants at Gien (pharmaceuticals), Soual (dermo-cosmetics) and Avène (dermo-cosmetics) gradually resumed industrial production on Monday April 26. The Gaillac plant, which manufactures pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic active ingredients, was able to continue operations. 

In France and abroad, sales activity has never been interrupted, and distribution operations have now resumed normally in all Group subsidiaries.

Thanks to safety stocks and the continuation of priority deliveries, the Group was able to ensure the continued availability of its therapeutic treatments to patients. In addition, stocks of dermo-cosmetic products held by wholesalers, distributors and pharmacists were generally sufficient to absorb consumer demand.  

As a precautionary measure, and in line with its forward-looking risk management plan, the Group's IT system was immediately put on standby on March 31 to prevent the virus from spreading. Customers, partners and health authorities were kept regularly informed of the situation, and a complaint was lodged after the attack was claimed.

As part of the remediation operations, all the Group's IT systems and media have been reviewed to verify or restore their integrity, and to reinforce their security.  

VPI unveils an atypical spray cap for the MCM perfume

site-industries-cosmetiques McCartney Capot.

MCM, the German luxury leather goods brand (licensed by InterParfums USA), has entrusted VPI with the launch of its latest unisex fragrance.
VPI (Faiveley Plast Beauty) took on the challenge of designing and developing a perfume cap with a unique design, inspired by the Stark bag, one of the MCM brand's iconic leather pieces.

"A fragrance that travels, like a handbag". 

This was the original proposal that inspired the InterParfums and MCM teams, and which was brought to life thanks to VPI's expertise. 
For this ambitious project, VPI developed a spray cap with a two-piece cover (a cap and a push-button) galvanized in Gold, before adding an inner part and a handle.
The inside has a spring function (metal-free) which ensures that the push-button returns to its initial position, in perfect alignment with the cap. 
VPI's teams worked on a combination of engraving and texture to create a beautiful leather look for the injected soft-material handle. A successful development that enabled it to be assembled on the cap and held perfectly, elegantly, so as to carry the bottle by the handle. 

This perfume cap demanded a high degree of technical mastery. A real challenge for VPI, of which we are very proud. " emphasizes Béryl Trentin, Key Account Manager at VPI.

The Spray cap is available in 3 sizes: 30 ml - 50 ml - 75 ml. Available in MCM boutiques and online. Worldwide launch in April 2021.

Riverpack commits to women employees in China with the support of Chanel

site-industries-cosmetiques Chanel shopping bags with Riverpack support to employees in China.

Riverpack, a company committed to CSR issues, has designed and implemented a multi-year program to promote gender equality and support the empowerment of women at its paper bag production site in China.

Paper bags are assembled by hand at Riverpack's site, primarily by women. Female employees are generally exposed to quality of life and health and safety issues that are specific to them. These issues are also specific to the geographical and socio-cultural location of a production site.

In line with Riverpack's strong awareness of the importance of CSR, in particular societal CSR, and its commitment to gender equality, the desire to work on a program targeting the quality of life at work for women in the factory in China was obvious. Designed with the support of Chanel, and led by Alexandre Fontaine, Corporate Social Responsibility Manager at Riverpack, the program was developed in close cooperation with the field teams in China.

The health of female employees is a key priority: The program was designed with the support of BSR, Business for Social Responsibility, a strategic partner of Chanel in the consideration of gender issues in the supply chain. The objective of BSR's HERhealth approach is to train women employees in factories on issues related to family planning, reproductive and maternal health (contraception, pregnancy, pre/post-natal care), disease prevention (HIV, breast cancer, etc.), their quality of life and their health and safety at work (high-risk jobs unsuitable for pregnant women).

The program began in early 2019 with a diagnostic to assess women's knowledge of their own health. The goal was then to advance their knowledge based on the principle of peer to peer learning. Of just over 200 women out of the 500 employees at the plant, 12 voluntarily signed up as Peer Health Educators (PHEs) to attend an 18-hour training course provided by BSR over a period of 6 months. With the support of the management, who were made aware and involved, each of them then set about training 20 to 30 of their colleagues during monthly sessions, enabling them to develop the knowledge of nearly 200 employees, including male volunteers, on health and safety issues and the quality of life of women at work, and on gender equality.

The trainings were relayed on site by dynamic communication from the plant's management and CSR manager: posting of information and events, expression forums, dashboards, supervision and support of PHEs in the animation of a specially dedicated WeChat network... This pro-active dissemination of information made it possible to quickly establish a constructive dialogue with employees on gender equality issues, which is intended to continue beyond the end of the program in June 2021 and to become permanently anchored in the site's managerial culture.

Concrete and measurable results: in order to measure the positive impact of this project, indicators have been defined and monitored in order to draw up a medium to long-term assessment of the progress made and the benefits obtained. The level of knowledge of employees about their health, their ability to take care of themselves, their level of personal consideration are all factors that improve their well-being and therefore their motivation, their responsibility and their commitment. The monitoring of these indicators correlated with a decrease in absenteeism and turnover over the course of the program, demonstrating the importance of human capital development at the site.

Inspiring and egalitarian managerial practices: on the strength of the findings and positive results obtained by the HERhealth approach, the collaboration with BSR was extended in April 2020 to the deployment of a pilot HERmanagement program, developed with the support of Chanel. The objective of the program is to increase the awareness of the site's management to issues related to gender equality, which will ultimately promote the integration and professional development of female employees. Based on in-depth questionnaires and collaborative sessions between employees and management, the program resulted in an action plan to further strengthen gender equality in internal procedures and protocols.

"At Riverpack, the teams are convinced that recognition and education are key factors in the emancipation of women, gender equality and equal opportunities. The indicators we have been monitoring for the past two years, such as absenteeism and turnover rates, are concrete proof of the quality of the dialogue established, of the work and of the progress made towards greater professional equality. And this is thanks, among other things, to clear, regular and transparent communication between employees, site management and the company: the mutual benefits are immense and we are very proud of the progress made.says Frédéric Poinas, general manager of Riverpack.

"Within the AFD Group, Riverpack's parent company, the CSR approach is historical and mature. Riverpack has demonstrated this through its recent EcoVadis assessment, with Platinum status. It was essential for us to go even further and fully exercise our social responsibility. This is a strong expectation of the Chanel House, with regard to its preferred suppliers. The HER project is a great challenge, which we are keen to take up through concrete actions: to be in the DOING rather than in the SAYING. It is more delicate, more time-consuming, since it concerns the human being. We are grateful to the House of Chanel for having trusted us to lead this project, and especially happy to show our consideration for our employees, by contributing to an individual quality of life at work, which radiates on a collective scale.says Pierre Fayard, President of the AFD Group.

"CSR is in our DNA, underlines Frédéric Poinas. CSR issues are an integral part of our corporate strategy, which has been formalized and steered for the past three years by Alexandre Fontaine, Corporate Social Responsibility Manager, joined by Alexandra Fayard. Recently graduated in Land Economy from Cambridge University, her knowledge in environmental economics and law will support the international development of AFD Group's activities and Riverpack in particular, while limiting their impact. Our vision of CSR is naturally reflected in a sustainable approach to packaging, right from the design stage: certified paper from responsibly and sustainably managed forests, paper incorporating a proportion of recycled fibres, cords and ribbons made from bio-based and renewable materials, replacement of lamination with water-based protective varnish, etc. At Riverpack, however, we approach CSR well beyond the material approach and consider in depth the social and societal impact of our activity within the local industrial fabric. It is this shared vision with Chanel, for whom we are a privileged partner, that brought us together and pushed us to go even further with the implementation of a project centered on the women employed within our production site in China.

"The plant's CSR manager himself distributes information brochures on the measures available, rights and recourse, and the health establishments and contacts accessible nearby. It is gratifying to see, through the testimonies, the usefulness and even more so, the crucial importance of this approach, which motivates us all.notes Frédéric Poinas.

Shiseido and Dolce&Gabbana: partial termination of the agreement

site-industries-cosmetiques Dolce & Gabbana agreement partially terminated.

Shiseido Company, Limited and Dolce&Gabbana jointly announce that they have entered into a partial termination of their beauty license agreement subject to closing conditions.

This change, which is the result of a strategic agreement between the parties, will be effective on December 31, 2021 for all markets and all activities except those carried out from France.

Beauté Prestige International S.A.S. is currently considering a proposal from Dolce&Gabbana to conclude the licensing activities carried out from France by the end of this year and to continue the production and distribution of Dolce&Gabbana beauty products, on a worldwide basis, for a minimum period of 12 months starting January 1, 2022. Local consultation processes with French employee representatives have been launched accordingly.

This decision to partially terminate the agreement out of court is in line with Shiseido's medium-to-long-term strategy "Win 2023 and Beyond.

Shiseido and BPI entered into the -Dolce&Gabbana licensing agreement in October 2016. BPI is responsible for the Shiseido Group's fragrance business.

Photo: screen capture of the site dolcegabbanabeauty.com/en/parfums/ © DR

Eurazeo signs an exclusive agreement to invest in Aroma-Zone

site-industries-cosmetiques A variety of beauty products on a wooden table with Eurazeo investment.

Eurazeo has signed an exclusive agreement to invest in Aroma-Zone, a French pioneer in natural and DIY aromatherapy, beauty and wellness, built on a digital model of selling to the customer directly.

Eurazeo and its partners would invest approximately 410 million euros to become Aroma-Zone's reference partner alongside the Vausselin family, the company's founders, who would remain a significant shareholder in the company. The final terms of the transaction will be communicated upon completion.

Created in 1999 as an information site on essential oils, Aroma-Zone is today one of the main digital commercial platforms which differentiates itself by :

- A natural and transparent offer, particularly with regard to the origin of raw materials and the composition of products, based on the concept of "home-made" and the provision of rich and educational information;

- The best quality at the right price based on a direct "end-to-end" model of the chain: upstream with a network of nearly 300 partners producing raw materials, and downstream with customers, through a digital model of direct customer sales;

- A loyal community of customers, prescribers and involved in the co-construction of the brand;

- Responsible and ethical practices, and a quest to minimize the impact on the environment.

Aroma-Zone, based in Cabrières d'Avignon in Provence, employs more than 350 people and distributes its products mainly online and in a network of seven boutiques across France. Through constant innovation, inspired by constant interaction with its loyal community of customers, the Aroma-Zone group has succeeded in developing a unique offer of more than 1,900 references and 3,000 recipes, addressing today more than 2 million users annually.

Eurazeo would support Aroma-Zone in its growth strategy by providing the company with the strength of its international network and its expertise in the consumer and digital sectors. Eurazeo would help Aroma-Zone to improve its digital sales platform in France and to develop it internationally, while continuing to open new physical points of sale.

L'Occitane accelerates its digital transformation in the field of packaging thanks to Veeva

site-industries-cosmetiques L'Occitane accelerates its digital transformation with Veeva for packaging.

Veeva, a company specializing in quality and regulatory affairs for industry players, was asked by L'Occitane, a family-owned group with international influence that manufactures and markets cosmetics and well-being products based on natural ingredients. The objective was to accelerate the analysis of essential issues such as the elimination of plastic, the recycling of packaging and new uses for cosmetics.

It's no secret that the Covid-19 health crisis has reshuffled the deck for many industries. As far as the cosmetics sector is concerned, health concerns have seen the trend towards healthy, but also ethical, organic and transparent products - already in vogue before - soar. All these values are supported by L'Occitane en Provence.

"L'Occitane is more than ever a committed brand, explains David Bayard, the group's packaging technical development director. Our first stores were already equipped with deposit systems that allowed the collection of glass packaging. Our commitment to protecting nature and reducing our environmental footprint is natural..."

A committed group

The L'Occitane group is one of the world leaders in the market of cosmetics based on natural and organic ingredients. It stands out for the diversity and abundance of its offer, and operates under six different brands, including the historic L'Occitane en Provence, but also Melvita, Erborian, L'Occitane au Brésil, LimeLife and Elemis. Today, the group has more than 3,400 points of sale, including more than 1,600 directly operated stores.

Since 1997, the group has extended its territorial anchorage to 90 countries, relying on biosystems - that is to say, virtuous ecosystems, both natural and human. L'Occitane is a pioneer of "multi-local": this approach, nourished by an entrepreneurial spirit, is highly creative of economic, environmental and societal value for all the territories where the group is invested.

"Faced with new societal challenges, particularly the notion of sustainable development, which has become increasingly important in recent years, we have been able to be bold and evolve our strategy while remaining in line with our fundamental principles, explains David Bayard. We have made some aggressive commitments to reduce our footprint, such as completely eliminating non-recycled plastic from our packaging, and producing our packaging exclusively from recycled materials by 2025. We are also committed to giving a second life to all components that are not locally recyclable. This has been a real focus for us over the past three years."

As a signatory of the Ellen McArthur Foundation in favor of the circular economy, following the example of a large number of leading companies in all sectors, the group's initiatives in this direction are systematically made public. Some of them, such as the recent launch of the first recycled aluminum tube, or the generalization of the eco-refill system, have contributed to a positive evolution of L'Occitane's environmental impact.

Time trial and regulatory obstacle course

"But these initiatives have a downside, continues David Bayard. There are many constraints, particularly of a regulatory nature. The development of new products, such as the solid shampoos and conditioners that we will soon be launching, or new distribution methods such as in-store filling of eau de toilette bottles, give rise to various complications, linked for example to bacteria. However, our fundamental mission as a producer is to guarantee zero risk for the health of the consumer. No player can afford to compromise on this issue of compliance.

A real marathon for the man in charge of the continuous optimization of packaging at L'Occitane. " We have to move a lot of things. When we come out with a new recycled aluminum package, to use that example, because we're always looking for a sustainable transformation and a long-term vision, we have to apply that to all of our lines, all over the world, while taking into account pre-existing inventory. This necessarily takes a considerable amount of time."

An exponential mosaic of indicators

In order to monitor its progress, the teams at work within the group must manipulate a very large amount of data. What percentage of a given material goes where, what is the waste rate for a given product, etc.; the indicators necessary for the company's transformation have multiplied as it has evolved, making them extremely complicated to manage. This is why the need to centralize and manage this data has become an imperative.

"In our quest for precision and speed of access to information, we looked for an editor who could help us obtain more rigor and work more easily with the data," says David Bayard.

Objective: rapid implementation to meet the brand's commitments

April 2019. Looking for a tool that was easy for teams to use, and that could be made operational quickly to meet its commitments, L'Occitane contacted several vendors. That's when Veeva, a global specialist in modernizing production processes - quality, regulatory, marketing - for industry players, and its RegulatoryOne solution came into the picture.

"We were already working with Veeva to improve our performance in terms of product quality assurance, but Veeva's people weren't necessarily going to take over the regulatory side of our business, says David Bayard. What made the difference was Veeva's ability to identify our needs beforehand and adapt their solution. A full-scale test phase - or POC - then quickly confirmed that they were able to meet them and make us more agile."

Change of dimension but a lasting course maintained

From now on, L'Occitane's teams are able to evaluate their results much better than before. "Where it used to take us four full weeks to observe the behavior of about ten indicators, we now have more than fifty evaluated in just two days! This has enabled us to move from an annual monitoring rhythm to a quarterly rhythm, in addition to refining the data and multiplying these indicators.David Bayard, whose initiative has been elected as the group's major project for the year 2020, is very pleased. As the validation circuits are increasingly well controlled, the management of our production as a whole is made easier and more fluid. In a word: accelerated. The initial objectives have therefore been largely achieved.

In total, nearly 70 internal users of the company benefit from Veeva's solution for their daily activities. The L'Occitane en Provence brand is the only one concerned at this time, but demonstrations are taking place in several other entities that should follow suit.

"In addition, there is talk of opening up RegulatoryOne access to suppliers, to enable them to enter their data directly into the system. This digital collaboration on all data and documents will bring more readability, information security and time savings for all; the client/supplier relationship will be enhanced, concludes David Bayard. This will allow us to be even more agile. We expect to add a dozen suppliers to the process in the first quarter of this year.

Vitessence of hemp, from perfume to well-being

site-industries-cosmetiques A trio of orange lip balms highlighting the natural benefits of Vitessence hemp on a white background.

Moisturizing, nourishing, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and healing: hemp's properties - like its herbal fragrance, which is said to act on stress, anxiety and depression - are seducing the cosmetics industry.

According to Timothy Evans-Lora, Manager Applied Research in the United States, "consumers associate hemp with health in a holistic way, associating it with relaxation, being modern and trendy, and emotional well-being". Indeed, this is what a 1 Symrise study reveals: for 70 % of those surveyed, beyond its medical and recreational properties, hemp is perceived as a natural plant (70 %), with health benefits (38 %), modern (37 %) and possessing a holistic dimension (30 %).

The study also established that for 77 % of those surveyed, it would be perfectly acceptable for a cosmetic product to be illustrated with a cannabis scent. This scent would have to be perceived as natural, highlighting herbaceous, aromatic and medicinal facets, and even be very close to the smell of marijuana.

This in-depth knowledge of consumer expectations and perceptions of this atypical ingredient, combined with strong R&D expertise in compliance with legal and regulatory restrictions worldwide, now enables Symrise to reinforce its expertise with a tailor-made fragrance offering: Vitessence de chanvre.

Combining its expertise in the development of fragrances, cosmetic ingredients and aromatic molecules, Symrise provides its customers with a 360° solution with three hemp Vitessences to meet the growing cannabis trend in the industry.

In order to recreate a hemp scent as close as possible to that of the pure ingredient, Symrise scientists and perfumers analyzed several hemp species from around the world to determine which was the most interesting from an olfactory point of view. They selected Sour Space Candy from Colorado, USA. Using Vitessence technology, Symrise recreated a synthetic essence, close to the dried plant, with a green, balsamic, earthy, herbaceous and woody olfactory profile. This hemp Vitessence contains no tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) or cannabidiol (CBD).

"Most customers who buy hemp products want natural products. And let's not forget those who pay attention and decipher labels".explains Fabien Calvet, Symrise Beauty Care sustainable development ambassador. That's why Symrise also offers this hemp Vitessence in a 100 % natural (ISO 9235) and Cosmos Natural certified version.

Hemp Vitessences contain a synthetic Symrise molecule, with grapefruit, rhubarb and hyacinth facets. It boosts citrus and aqueous notes in the top notes. It is also recognized for its relaxing properties.

"Hemp Vitessence offers fragrances a breath of natural lightness thanks to its sparkling freshness. Captivating and mystical, it reinforces the green citrus and aromatic elements while complexifying the spirit of the woody notes".notes perfumer Jerry Padoly.

Respectful of nature, Vitessence technology aims to capture the olfactory properties of any natural ingredient without harming it. The fragrant air around the plant, also known as "head space", is captured by a non-invasive process. The fragrant molecules are identified by gas chromatography, and the results shared with the perfumer for a reconstitution as close to nature as possible, which is not always the case with other extraction methods. This technology is all the more interesting for its ability to manage sourcing, pricing and regulatory issues.

These hemp Vitessences, developed by Symrise's Consumer Fragrance Division, are used in cosmetics, home products and pet applications such as cat litter. They enable consumers to create a soothing environment conducive to emotional well-being. They join the offerings of hemp seed oil (Cosmetic Ingredients division) and Canapure (Aroma Molecules division).

[podcast] Beauty, the sector with 118M tweets per year

site-industries-cosmetiques A shocked woman checks her phone in front of an orange background.

A new episode of Cosmétalks, our podcast dedicated to the perfume and cosmetics industry. This time, Patrick Calmels, in charge of the Luxury team for Twitter, takes the floor to answer Nicolas Gosse's questions.

patrick- Management - Market info

This former L'Oréal employee explains how cosmetics brands can find insights in Twitter to fuel their innovations and improve their intelligence. In his words: " Twitter is the world's largest focus group. "The 192 million people who use this social network every day generated over 118 million beauty-related tweets last year. A platform for conversation with all industry stakeholders...

Listen directly on our website or on the main podcast platforms.

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