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Firmenich launches Scentmate: an AI-powered platform for independent brands

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site-industries-cosmetics Firmenich launches Scentmate: an AI-based platform for independent brands.

Firmenich, the global fragrance and flavor company, introduces Scentmate, the first AI-powered platform that optimizes and simplifies co-creation to deliver successful fragrance compositions to entrepreneurs and independent brands. Serving a dynamic market, Scentmate provides instant access to unique scents, putting perfumers and experts at the customer's disposal throughout the process.

"As creators of positive emotions and at the forefront of innovation for over 125 years, our mission is to bring quality fragrances to every consumer, says Ilaria Resta, President of Firmenich's Fragrance Division. Today, we are excited to launch the first innovative fragrance creation solution tailored for entrepreneurs and independent brands. We went from concept to execution in less than a year, while leveraging Firmenich's best-in-class assets, including more than 50 years of collecting fragrance data, to revolutionize the way people smell."

Scentmate is reinventing the traditional method of fragrance creation to provide unrestricted access to creativity, expertise and resources. The streamlined, digitalized briefing process allows clients to define all necessary parameters. Scentmate then recommends the best fragrance creations, developed by perfumers, reducing a process that used to take weeks to a few minutes.

Alfonso Alvarez-Prieto, CEO of Scentmate, adds: "Scentmate enables customers to match their creative ideas with the ideal fragrance. We offer an intuitive, easy-to-use digital platform that, combined with human sensibility, makes it easy to co-create the best fragrance to win consumer favor, while greatly optimizing market entry. Behind this platform are the most recognized perfumers, one of the largest databases related to fragrances, consumer information from around the world and a young and dynamic team fully dedicated to this mission."

In addition, Scentmate streamlines order processing to allow customers to optimize their supply chain: sample requests, orders and payments are made online, and quantities are adjustable. Samples arrive within 48 hours and orders are processed within five days. Scentmate also provides compliance and regulatory guidance tailored to specific product categories and geographic areas.

Eastman's Cristal One, resins used in FusionPKG packaging

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site-industries-cosmetiques A white jar with a FusionPKG lid in Eastman's Cristal One resins.
Eastman expands its portfolio of sustainability offerings with Cristal™ One recyclable resins for cosmetics.

Eastman announced the launch of Eastman Cristal One, a line of Resin Identification Code 1 (RIC1) resins designed to meet the rigorous requirements of thick-walled packaging for luxury cosmetics. These innovative products are the first RIC1 materials to produce clear jars up to 12mm thick.

Fusion Press Release- Uncategorized -

FusionPKG, an Aptar Beauty + Home company, is launching several new products using Cristal One as well as other sustainable resins from Eastman's Cristal Renew line with high levels of certified recycled content. Cristal One will also be available as Cristal One Renew with up to 50 % of certified recycled content generated by Eastman's molecular recycling technologies. These products provide both certified recycled content and RIC1 recyclability while giving brands the design freedom they need.

"With Cristal One recyclable resins and the broad portfolio of Eastman Renew materials, FusionPKG can now offer a more sustainable solution without compromise across its extensive portfolio, said Daniel Campbell, senior sustainability and packaging engineer, FusionPKG. What's really remarkable about these resins is how they allow us to create the crystal clear, premium packaging we're known for, while supporting key sustainability initiatives for our brands." 

FusionPKG is launching five of its distinctive custom packaging designs with Eastman's Cristal line, including the Max Out series. The Space Max collection includes an airless bottle, a modern ampoule dropper, an atmospheric bottle and a bottle with a "crowbar" applicator in Cristal Renew, as well as a skin care jar in Cristal One.

Through FusionPKG BeautyLab, FusionPKG's turnkey division, the company can create innovative formulations to provide a total solutions approach. FusionPKG also plans to work with brands to develop custom packaging using the full line of Cristal Renew with certified recycled content and Cristal One.

"We are thrilled to be working with FusionPKG to launch Cristal One and Cristal One Renew. FusionPKG's sleek, cutting-edge design sensibility was exactly what we were looking for to bring an entirely new product to market, said Tara Cary, market development manager for cosmetics and personal care at Eastman. With the Cristal One portfolio, we are able to bring together the best of both worlds - recycled and recyclable - while delivering the superior performance that innovative brands and design houses like FusionPKG demand for their packaging today." 

Cristal One meets California/ASTM guidelines for RIC1 designation and has achieved APR Critical Guidance recognition for recyclability. Additional recognitions are under review and will be available soon. The Cristal One line includes Cristal One, Cristal One Pro and Cristal EN, as well as corresponding Renew materials, providing brands with options to meet a wide variety of application needs for skin care and color cosmetics with wall thicknesses up to 12 mm.

Seppic partners with UEBT in the "Action for Nature & People" initiative

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site-industries-cosmetiques Two women holding baskets in a field as part of the "Action for Nature & People" initiative supported by Seppic and UEBT.

Seppic, through its subsidiary Serdex, has been an active member of the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade) since 2008, and has joined forces with over 40 other companies as part of the Action for Nature & People initiative. This joint commitment aims to promote and develop a responsible sourcing model for ingredients derived from biodiversity, while respecting people and the environment.

Serdex contributes to this through its commitment to preserving biodiversity, respecting traditional know-how, improving the living conditions of local populations and developing strong partnerships with local suppliers in plant collection areas. In doing so, Serdex guarantees a responsible supply chain, in line with the principles of the Nagoya Protocol, and provides its customers with ingredients that respect biodiversity and local communities.

Serdex meets 96.5 % of UEBT membership requirements, and has again improved its score from the last audit*. UEBT requirements apply to all sourcing activities through which ingredients are produced, processed and sourced. Serdex has chosen to improve the ethical practices of its Centella Asiatica supply chain in Madagascar, covering the entire chain from suppliers to the more than 3,000 pickers involved.

Jean Baptiste Dellon, Managing Director of Seppic, comments: "Our commitment to developing a responsible sourcing model reflects Seppic's CSR ambition, as expressed in its "Caring" program in which Seppic pledges to contribute to living in a healthy environment and creating sustainable relationships with its stakeholders."

*UEBT membership audits carried out in 2017 and 2020 by Ecocert on the basis of the Ethical BioTrade standard.

Cannabis cultivation in France and hemp valorization: challenges and opportunities for innovation

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A bottle of CBD oil next to a cannabis plant highlights the potential for innovation and opportunities in the cultivation and valorization of hemp in France.

Today, hemp production in France is limited to industrial applications. A change in regulations is expected this year to allow hemp tops to be harvested and valorized.

At the same time, the Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de santé (ANSM) is launching an experiment to demonstrate the benefits of cannabis for medical purposes. This raises the question of how to structure a specialized French cannabis industry with highly technological production constraints.

In this fast-changing context, Innov'Alliance aims to explore and anticipate new avenues of innovation, from hemp and cannabis production to the valorization of cannabinoids in nutraceutical, cosmetic and food drink "wellness" markets.

The competitiveness cluster is organizing a technical day on 1er July, in Avignon, on this theme, enabling participants to discover the "Hemp of possibilities" and explore the challenges and avenues for innovation. Numerous issues will be addressed, from hemp and cannabis production to the formulation and valorization of CBD and cannabinoids.

To find out about the programclick here

The beautiful photo illustrating this information comes from Hinterland co. Thanks to Erin Stone and photographer Julia Teichmann 

L'Oréal announces the production of the first plastic cosmetic bottle derived from Carbios enzymatic recycling.

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques Five orange bottles are lined up on a table in a laboratory to present L'Oréal's first cosmetic container made from enzymatic recycling of Carbios.

 L'Oréal announces the production of the world's first fully recycled plastic cosmetic bottle thanks to the enzymatic technology from Carbios and aims to put the bottles resulting from this breakthrough innovation into production in 2025. Biotherm would thus be the first Group brand to launch a product in this bottle of the future. 

Carbios' technology, a pioneer in the development of biotechnological processes for PET* plastic recycling, paves the way for the manufacture of new products from 100% recycled materials thanks to its enzymatic process. It has the advantage of being able to process all types of PET - clear, colored, opaque and multilayer - and to recycle these plastics ad infinitum. 

Jacques Playe, L'Oréal Packaging and Development Directordeclares : "We have been working with Carbios since 2017 to develop this first bottle based on enzymatically recycled PET, an alternative technology to mechanical recycling. Today, we are pleased to announce its feasibility in the pilot phase, and are delighted to be able to create, with our partners, the packaging of the future. This is a promising innovation for the future, which illustrates our commitment to bringing to market packaging that is more respectful of the planet, and which is part of a circularity approach we have been pursuing for over 15 years". 

Giulio Bergamaschi, Biotherm International General Managerdeclares : "Biotherm is a pioneer in eco-responsible cosmetics, and has placed sustainable packaging and waste reduction at the heart of its strategy. We are delighted to be the first cosmetics brand to produce an entirely recycled bottle thanks to Carbios' breakthrough technology". 

In 2017, to promote the development of innovative plastic recycling solutions, L'Oréal created a consortium with Carbios to industrialize its technology, which was joined by Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo and Suntory Beverage & Food Europe. Since 2019, L'Oréal has acquired a stake in Carbios through its private equity fund BOLD Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development. 
With "L'Oréal for the Future", L'Oréal's new sustainable development program to 2030, the Group has taken a new step towards a profound transformation of its activities and has set itself ambitious new targets, particularly in terms of packaging: 

  • - by 2025, 100 % of its plastic packaging will be refillable, reusable, recyclable or compostable; 
  • - by 2030, 100 % of plastic packaging will be of recycled or biosourced origin, and the Group will no longer use any virgin plastics of fossil origin; 
  • - 100 % of ingredients used in biobased formulas and materials will be traceable to sustainable sources by 2030. 

To achieve these goals, L'Oréal works with several strategic partners to ensure it has the best technologies available. In addition to Carbios, L'Oréal collaborates in particular with Albéa, a leader in cosmetic packaging, with whom the Group developed in 2019 the first cosmetic tube incorporating FSC-certified cardboard; Purecycle, to produce polypropylene (PP) recycled by solvolysis; and LanzaTech and Total, with whom L'Oréal announced in October 2020 a world first: the production of a polyethylene (PE) cosmetic bottle designed from recycled industrial carbon emissions. 

*PET : PET plastic (polyethylene terephthalate) is the most commonly recycled plastic. 

The winners of the PCD Innovation Awards, ADF Innovation Awards and PLD Innovation Awards have been announced

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site-industries-cosmetiques Adf Innovation Awards 2021 and PLD Innovation Awards logos unveiled.

Organized as part of the ADF&PCD and PLD Paris 2021 trade fairs, the benchmark event for packaging beauty products, premium beverages, aerosols and dispensing systems, the PCD Innovation Awards, ADF Innovation Awards and PLD Innovation Awards aim to recognize and reward the year's most outstanding packaging on the European market in 2020.

Some 160 entries, 61 winning products, 22 awards, 25 certificates and 3 special mentions: three juries of packaging technical experts, professionals from the most influential brands on the market and journalists representing the profession voted to select the winners. 

Every year, new trends emerge. For this year's event, we'll be remembering the exchanges around the products in competition on: eco-design, new gestures, ergonomics, sustainable projects, refillables, reusables, connected products, recycled materials, 3D printing, design, decoration, product environment, recycled aluminum, 0 plastic, new codes for luxury, French know-how, etc.., recurring terms shared and used most frequently by jury members, and which helped select the finalists of the year's most outstanding innovations, acclaimed in the various categories.

The winners are:

> For the PCD Innovation Awards

Category: Fragrance for Men & Women

  • Parfums Christian Dior, Sauvage Ressource (award)
  • Boucheron, Serpent Bohème (award)
  • Giorgio Armani, My Way (award)
  • Jimmy Choo, Seduction Collection Parfums (certificate)
  • Interparfums, Montblanc Signature (certificate)
  • Puig, Loubiworld (certificate)
  • Givenchy, L'interdit (certificate)
  • Coty, Perfect Marc Jacob (certificate)

Category: Premium & Luxury Make-up

  • Juni Cosmetics, Luxury Hydrating Lipstick (award)
  • Chanel, Stretch Mascara (award)
  • Chanel, "Les Beiges" Fluid Foundation (certificate)
  • Jimmy Choo, Seduction Collection Lipstick Satin Color (certificate)

Category: Premium & Luxury skin care

  • Chanel, Le Lift & Hydra Beauty (award)
  • Ren, Clean Skincare Evercalm (award)
  • L'Oréal Lancôme, Clarifique Double Essence (certificate)
  • L'Oréal Helena Rubinstein, Prodigy Cure Cell Glow (certificate)

Category: Consumer Care

  • Nivea, Naturally Good Body Lotion (award)
  • L'Occitane, Shea Butter Hand Cream (certificate)
  • Anthélios L'Oréal, Eco-responsible Moisturizing Milk SPF50+ (certificate)

Category: Hygiene and Hair Care

  • Henkel AG&CO KGaA, Social Plastic (award)
  • L'Oréal, Garnier Ultra Doux Solid Shampoo and Dop Solid Shampoo (certificate, special mention from the Jury)

Category: Limited Edition

  • Chanel, Coffret Exceptionnel Beige 50ml (award)
  • L'Oréal Viktor & Rolf, Flower Bomb (certificate)
  • Lalique, Cristal Pivoine Collection (certificate)

> For the ADF Innovation Awards

Category: Personal Care

  • KAO, Biore u The Body (award)
  • Weener Plastics, Shoe deo actuator Carl (certificate)
  • L'Oréal, Garnier Fructis compressed dry shampoo in transparent PET aerosol (certificate)
  • Farmol s.p.a, Monsavon Organic Almond Milk (certificate)

Category: Concept of the year

  • Tubex GmbH, Top Color (award)
  • Tubex GmbH, Patented Alloy with 60% Real PCR Inclusion (certificate)
  • Nussbaum Matzingen AG, Aerosol cans made from 100% PCR aluminium (certificate)
  • Abas - Brazilian Aerosol Association, General purpose cleaner - Alcohol 70% Aerosol Inclusion (certificate)

Category: Technical and Industrial Innovations

  • Beiersdorf AG, Nivea Shower Refill Station (award)

Category: Sustainable development innovation

  • Tubex GmbH, Unilever Recycled Refreshed - Rexona (certificate)
  • Unilever PLC, Love Beauty and Planet Dry Shampoo (certificate)
  • Aerosol Service Poland, Lesso (certificate)

Albéa, Erpro 3D Factory and HP Inc: innovation through 3D printing

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A man in a lab coat uses Erpro 3D Factory to innovate with 3D printing alongside HP Inc.

Two years after integrating 3D printing technology into its services, Albéa has reached a new milestone in the development of 3D cosmetic packaging solutions, thanks to a partnership with start-up Erpro 3D Factory. The company is currently developing applications exploiting industry-leading HP Multi Jet Fusion 3D printing technology, combined with Erpro's know-how in cosmetics production. As a result, the first generation of cosmetic parts, designed and produced to take advantage of the advanced capabilities of the HP platform, is currently in the final stages of development. Albéa will be launching the first products very shortly.

"HP and Erpro's expertise allows us to take 3D printing in cosmetics to the next level. The fine detail that HP technology is capable of delivering is astonishing, says Yann Crapet, 3D Project Manager at Albéa. We can offer our customers fast-to-market solutions combined with unprecedented custom design, for both small and large quantities."

In the initial phase of this joint effort, Albéa, Erpro and HP Inc worked closely together to design and produce applications that met the regulatory standards of the cosmetics industry, while offering a high level of quality, cost and reliability. By offering extreme detail and massive customization, the benefits of the design proved essential to the development process.

"As we've seen in consumer goods and other markets such as automotive and healthcare, the mass production of 3D printing applications has the potential to truly revolutionize industries," said Virginia Palacios, responsible for managing Multi Jet Fusion, HP Personalization and 3D Printing solutions. This groundbreaking work with Albéa and Erpro opens up astonishing possibilities for the world's leading cosmetics brands. The advanced capabilities offered by Multi Jet Fusion enable incredibly detailed design, precision quality and first-class performance for parts such as cosmetic brushes and more."

As the end-user of the machine, Erpro improved and customized its manufacturing processes to support the industrial production of small parts designed by Albéa.

3D printing technology continues to evolve rapidly beyond prototyping, offering flexible options for highly customized mass production of final parts and opening up new perspectives for brands and manufacturers, particularly in the cosmetics sector : "Today, this technology is unlocking many manufacturing applications, with unprecedented precision and reliability." explains Quentin Bertucchi, R&D Process Engineer at Erpro Group. "We are now able to produce even larger quantities in a shorter time. Advancing the industrialization of 3D printing with HP and Albéa and exploring all the possibilities of this technology is an exciting experience."adds Cyrille Vue, CEO of Erpro.

Albéa joins the declaration on extended producer responsibility for packaging

Albéa was the first cosmetics packaging manufacturer to sign the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's New Plastics Economy Global Commitment. Three years later, it was one of some 100 companies to endorse Ellen MacArthur's declaration in favor of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for the packaging industry.

"This declaration is an important and necessary step in the journey towards circularity, and we're proud to be part of it, says Gilles Swyngedauw, VP Sustainable Development & Innovation. We are rethinking the plastic packaging value chain with the aim of having a 100 % circular Albéa product portfolio by 2025. However, we are convinced that such a change will only happen if we work closely with all industry stakeholders. Together, we need to put in place efficient systems that enable packaging waste to be collected and regenerated."

High-yield production of biobased ingredients in plant chloroplasts

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Biobased ingredients efficiently produced in plant chloroplasts.

A world first for Algentech, a specialist in cutting-edge genome-editing technologies and synthesis tools. Its technology enables the production of proteins and nucleic acids in plant chloroplasts. A quantum leap for many industrial sectors seeking new biosourced production routes.

Yesterday, the journal Nature Plants published the process patented by Algentech. The article describes for the first time in the world an autonomous expression system in the form of minichromosomes that have the ability to self-replicate in chloroplasts. The method does not require integration of the genes of interest into the chloroplast genome. It therefore generates a nucleic acid and protein expression level 5 to 10 times higher than in the case of insertion.

Plants and algae transformed into green factories

In addition to a very high production yield, up to 70 % of total soluble proteins, the system offers the possibility of transferring biosynthetic pathways in their entirety: where existing technologies are limited to the integration of a few genes, Algentech's tool achieves the performance of simultaneous expression of 15 to 20 genes in plant cells. This technological leap forward makes it the tool of choice for synthetic biology and green chemistry applications in a wide range of sectors, including the production of peptides, nucleic acids, enzymes, therapeutic compounds and other molecules of interest to the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, food and energy industries...

Based on chloroplasts, the organelles responsible for photosynthesis in plant cells, Algentech's proprietary technology is comparable to biological production systems in microorganisms, but with a notable advantage: using sunlight as an energy source while consuming carbon dioxide (CO2). Plants are thus transformed into veritable green production factories, sustainable and respectful of the environment. Tested in tobacco, soya, carrots and duckweed, the system is transferable to a wide range of terrestrial plant species, and potentially also to photosynthetic algae, which have chloroplasts at the heart of their cells.

Algentech, a bioproduction player open to industrial partnerships

Awarded the Genopole® label and supported by Bpifrance, the company has entered into industrial and academic partnerships. Its platform will be used to produce natural biopesticide molecules for the agrochemical industry and enzymes for the biofuels sector. It is open to new collaborations to extend the scope of applications and increase production capacity. For example, the technology is promising for the biological production of squalene, useful in the cosmetics industry and as a vaccine adjuvant, or enzymes involved in the production of biohydrogen, a renewable energy source contributing to the energy transition.

"This technological breakthrough enables Algentech to position itself as a biomanufacturing player in France at a time when Europe's industrial production policy, which showed its shortcomings during the Covid pandemic, is changing, says Isabelle Malcuit, General Manager and Scientific Director. It responds to the need to strengthen and diversify industrial capacities at national level in a sustainable and environmentally-friendly way".

Make Up For Ever has entrusted the packaging of its Aqua Resist Brow Fixer to Texen Beauty Partners

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques Make Up For Ever has entrusted the packaging of its Aqua Resist Brow Fixer eyebrow gel to Texen Beauty Partners.

In MAKE UP FOR EVER's new Aqua Resist eyebrow range, Brow Fixer is distinguished by a texture in five creamy, intense, long-lasting shades, applied with a beveled micro-brush to discipline and sculpt the eyes. 

Texen Beauty Partners was responsible for the turnkey development, which included a customized standard pack and, as the product's centerpiece, a fine, beveled brush that underwent particularly demanding sourcing. Its 45° curvature and ergonomic cap, designed to the right length, promise a precise gesture for exact eyebrow definition. 

The 5 parts that make up the product are injected in various materials, chosen for their effectiveness and resistance. The 5-ml bottle is injected in black. The logo and tint are screen-printed in white.

Clever Beauty plays the transparency card with Sorga technologie

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A bottle of Clever Beauty nail polish featuring a QR code, transparently highlighting Sorga technology.

Anti-waste varnishes that increase the quantity used by up to 20 %, chemical solvents replaced by natural materials, the inclusion of disabled workers in order preparation, soon a 100 % organic, refillable and recyclable mascara: start-up Clever Beauty is shaking up the make-up industry with its commitment to promoting a responsible economy. "We wanted to bring the transparency and sincerity our customers expect," stresses Maëva Bentitallah, the brand's president.

A tamper-proof digital passport for every product

Clever Beauty wanted to go one step further by sharing its commitments with its community of consumers on a product-by-product basis. It chose Sorga technology to create tamper-proof digital passports for each product, from which it manages its information in real time. For its customers, the passport can be read on each product using the QR code reader on their smartphone, with no application to download and no identification required.

Sorga technology is a low-power public blockchain solution developed from exclusive CNRS patents, and made available to brands by MAP Émulsion.

Technology and support

"MAP Émulsion didn't just put the technology in place for us, like too many online solutions. Above all, it's a team that backs up the technology with services and business expertise in beauty and marketing.continues Maëva Bentitallah.

For his part, Philippe Guguen, President of MAP Émulsion, admits that "it's indicative of the new generation of our customers, who push us to take up a number of challenges. Here, the choice of the marker that opens the Sorga passport on your smartphone had to meet the environmental commitments of Clever Beauty, which doesn't have a case to print this marker on. So we chose a biodegradable sticker. Depending on the context, we adapt the marker: QR code, RFID, NFC, or even a photo print of the chaos of the material on a product detail for luxury brands that suffer from the scourge of counterfeiting. Sorga's tamper-proof digital passports can be called up by a wide variety of product markers."

Clever Beauty chose the QR code for its universality and ease of use. With an adapted design. The Sorga marker takes the form of an elegant diamond that can be read by any QR code reader. " It immediately looks much better on a beauty product!"admits Maëva Bentitallah.

Clever Beauty not only provides information on its commitments, but also distributes advice in its passports. " It's reassuring to have direct access to the information and opinions behind the product before you buy it, explains Alice de Guyenro, customer and Made in France entrepreneur herself. Secondly, it's so much more practical to have visual explanations and video tutorials when using it. There's even a messaging system reserved for customers in the product passport."

In addition, we offer services such as opinion gathering. Maëva Bentitallah explains: "Up to now, the reviews have concerned online shoppers. But that's only one in five beauty products in France. With Sorga, I can collect reviews wherever the product is purchased, it's blockchain-certified and I can really dispose of it as a brand."

Consumers therefore provide Clever Beauty with strategic feedback, to which Sorga adds useful statistics on the content they are interested in, where and when products are seen, and so on.

To find out more, Philippe Guguen, President of MAP Émulsion, gave us an interview published in our magazine Industries Cosmétiques (n°30 june 2021).

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