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An instrument for measuring tear evaporation rate

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman uses a device to promote evaporation on her face.

The Eye-VapoMeter is, according to Delfin Technologies, the first and only portable instrument to easily measure tear evaporation rate (TER for Tear Evaporation Rate). This evaporation rate may vary as a result of dry eye syndrome, or if the subject wears contact lenses. 

"With the Eye-VapoMeter, the effectiveness of a treatment is easy to determine by measuring the TER".says Delfin Technologies.

Thus, for example, in preclinical studies evaluating the effect of semifluorated alkanes on the ocular surface and the dynamics of tear fluids (studies conducted, among others, by the University of Auckland's Department of Ophthalmology, the German company Novaliq), the rate of tear evaporation was measured by evaporimetry using a Delfin Eye-VapoMeter SWL5 modified by Delfin Technologies for testing on the relatively small rabbit eye by attaching a child-sized swim goggle to the instrument. TER measurements were recorded in duplicate for each eye and averaged (mean of four measurements in total). Diurnal variation and repeatability of TER measurements were checked by taking ten consecutive TER readings in each eye (20 per rabbit) at two different times on the same day without prior instillation of a test eye drop.

Eye VapoMeter 2- Industrial processes - Product info

The advantages of the Eye-VapoMeter are :
- a rotating adapter adapted to the eye
- wide measuring field, up to 300 g/m2h, without saturation
- rapid measurement (15 to 20 seconds)
- a closed, draught-proof room
- a portable instrument that runs on batteries, without cables
- wireless measurement transfer
- an instrument also available with adapters for animals

Solabia adapts to all ages with dedicated organic solutions

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman uses Solabia's organic solutions to improve the appearance of her face.

As we age, our skin evolves. It undergoes more or less visible changes that affect self-perception and well-being. Each stage of life brings its own upheavals, and it's important to take these into account in order to adapt as best we can to these changes, in a perpetual quest for well-being and, by extension, ageing well. This is known as "happy-aging".

The Solabia Group's research has focused on these changes by looking at the cell biology processes involved in each stage of ageing, to address two main targets:

- Working women and men aged 35-45, mainly with children at home, faced with busy days and feeling that something has changed for their skin and that they no longer look their age. Their skin problems: signs of fatigue, a duller complexion, and the first wrinkles giving a rough appearance. Their mantra: "Act before it's too late!

- Experienced women aged 50-60, going through menopause and accelerated aging of their skin, with low self-esteem. Their skin problems: dehydrated, more wrinkled & loss of firmness, more fragile with sensations of cutaneous discomfort (hypersensitivity, itching, dryness, etc.). Their mantra: "Sublime authentic ageing!

With this in mind, Solabia has come up with an innovative range of dedicated active ingredients. FucoLife GR is a low-molecular-weight polysaccharide obtained by bacterial fermentation, available in powder form. 

This eco-designed active ingredient is specially designed for very dry, hypersensitive skin. For all women, the menopause is a time of upheaval. Hormonal fluctuations result in changes to the skin's physiology and emotional state, with a particular deterioration in self-esteem. FucoLife GR is a preservative-free powder obtained through a controlled fermentation process. Thanks to its high purity, this polysaccharide promotes skin regeneration by acting at the heart of the extracellular matrix. As a result, it significantly increases dermal thickness and density in the early years of menopause, to prevent profoundly deleterious long-term effects. Repaired, the skin is more comfortable and radiates youthfulness. What's more, during this special period in a woman's life, FucoLife GR reduces feelings of discomfort, improving self-esteem and mood. According to Solabia, women feel better about themselves, and regain their youth and femininity!

Essenc'Age is a pure 100 % powder composed of low molecular weight fucoidans obtained fromAscophyllum nodosum harvested on the island of Ouessant, a unique site classified as a biosphere reserve by Unesco.

L'Ascophyllum Nodosum is recognized for its richness in fucoidans, whose low molecular weight has been selected by the Solabia Group's research teams to create this active ingredient in powder form and without preservatives. These give it its skin rejuvenation and anti-fatigue properties. Thanks to its action on cell senescence, Essenc'Age acts as a genuine cellular protector to help the skin adapt to changes linked to ageing and the environment. According to Solabia, Essenc'Age significantly reduces the first signs of aging with a visible effect on overall wrinkles, and effectively combats signs of fatigue thanks to improved skin resilience. With smoothed/strengthened skin, physiological age and biological age are resynchronized. The complexion is rested, fresh & radiant. 

Emul'Spheres: customizable 100% beauty pearls that incorporate lipophilic ingredients into an emulsifier-free emulsion, leaving only skin care.

With the launch of Emul'Spheres technology, Solabia reinforces its position as a major player in the field of skincare pearls. Thanks to two naturally-derived gelling agents that form a network around the oil micro-droplets, this new pearl technology includes five times more lipophilic ingredients (vegetable oil, oily active ingredient, emollient, etc.) than in first-generation doin pearls, creating an emulsifier-free emulsion within each precious pearl. Richer, softer and silkier, Emul'Spheres are ideal, according to Solabia, for dry or sensitive skin, strengthening the hydrolipidic film and improving comfort while offering optimized sensoriality. Now presented in the form of Emul'Spheres Jojoba Oil, a prototype containing over 95 % of natural-origin ingredients, Emul'Spheres technology is also fully customizable, so it can be declined according to the customer's wishes for a tailor-made 100 % pearl!

Ecoskin is a pro-postbiotic that provides a preferential substrate for skin commensal microorganisms. By acting directly on the bioselectivity of the cutaneous microbiome, Ecoskin enhances the complexion's radiance and attenuates sensations of discomfort characteristic of sensitive skin with oily tendencies.

Ecoskin is an active ingredient combining two prebiotics and two postbiotic bacteria in inactivated form. A source of carbon, gluco-oligosaccharides - obtained by enzymatic synthesis - and fructo-oligosaccharides - obtained by pressing the tubers of the Yacon plant - constitute a preferential substrate for skin commensal microorganisms. Combined with lactobacillus-type probiotics, they have the capacity to rebalance the composition of microbial flora for better skin defense. These data have been confirmed by new metagenomic studies conducted in vivo on skin microbiota. Solabia also claims that Ecoskin significantly increases the expression of anti-microbial peptides such as β-defensin 2 and β-defensin 3.

By acting directly on the bioselectivity of the cutaneous microbiome, Ecoskin enhances the complexion's radiance and reduces feelings of discomfort characteristic of sensitive, oily skin.

Adaptogenic plants: Solabia extends its range of adaptogenic plants obtained through SolaGreen Superfluids technology with St John's Wort, Echinacea and Earth Tribute. Renowned for their stimulating and invigorating properties for body and mind, they boost the body's defense systems to actively combat the harmful effects of stress. Composed of standardized and titrated extracts, the adaptogen range soothes stressed skin and helps prevent premature aging.

Tribute to a contemporary delicacy

site-industries-cosmetiques A contemporary tribute to delicate elegance with a glass bottle featuring a gold lid on a white background.

Maison Berger Paris, a French heritage brand that celebrated its 120th anniversary in 2018, has created a curvaceous bottle that draws inspiration from the brand's classic codes, while adding refined, delicate details, paying a true tribute to contemporary delicacy. The preciousness of the materials and the juxtaposed hues create a beautiful graphic effect.

The design was created by Rozenn Mainguené, who has been creating and designing for the world of luxury and beauty for 20 years. The "Fleurs de Musc" fragrance radiates protective warmth and diffused tuberose to enhance the home. 

Once again, the brand entrusted Stoelzle Masnières with the creation of this faceted, hollowed-out bottle. A choice of top-of-the-range glass (Luxe N°1) with a trendy "nude" lacquer finish. 

Capacity: 350 ml

The young brand Kreme supports local agriculture

site-industries-cosmetiques Skin care products Kreme and oil on a table.

Since the sanitary crisis, 82 % of the French prefer to buy products of French origin. Their main motivation is to support French farmers in their daily consumption.

This trend, which is increasingly widespread in the food sector, is now affecting cosmetics. With this in mind, Krème proposes a new generation of cosmetics, produced in a short circuit. "We must go further than Made in France, which is no longer enough in cosmetics. Because what's the point of formulating in France care products that only contain ingredients from the other side of the world?". The co-founders of Krème, Juliette Lailler and Marie Belile explain: the French preference in the choice of the circuit of creation and production of a cosmetic is a key value. It is from this observation and this will that they created their range of fresh, organic, healthy and local care.

Cosmetics thanks to the short circuit

Krème offers a new generation of cosmetics and relaunches fresh productions every 10 weeks; a frequency that contrasts with the two years that pass on average between the manufacture and use of a conventional cosmetic. This is made possible thanks to active ingredients that are exclusively sourced from organic farmers in short circuits.

As an example, and in a move to support new agricultural sectors, Krème has chosen to support Aurore Cottrel, a farmer in Normandy. After the death of her husband, Aurore took over the family farm and decided to diversify into woad. This plant made the fortune of many towns in the north of France in the Middle Ages: a blue pigment was extracted from it that colored the skies of churches and clothes. Long supplanted by Indian indigo, woad, prized for its cosmetic virtues, is just beginning to be reintroduced in France... and could become colorful again! Kreme supports Aurore's project by providing financial support for this reintroduction, and by studying with her the market opportunities for the launch of a care product planned for 2022.

A commitment that makes sense to consumers

Since its launch at the end of 2020, Krème has not stopped seducing new consumers. After a remarkable campaign on Ulule (Brand #1 of Ulule on the beauty segment), the young brand doubles its turnover every month via its website, online since last December. This rapid growth has enabled it to join Station F, the world's largest incubator.

[study] Organic and natural, a massive seduction weapon on the cosmetics market

site-industries-cosmetiques A counter presenting a study of organic cosmetics, including a beaker filled with liquid and herbs.

Xerfi has just published a study entitled: "Organic and natural cosmetics at the time of the mass market - Evolution of competition and market growth prospects by 2023". 

I am made with organic products, natural ingredients or natural origin and marketed in recyclable packaging, in bulk or in solid form. Who am I? A... organic and/or natural cosmetic. Clean beauty" is now the subject of a real craze in France in a rather depressed hygiene-beauty sector. At the risk of sometimes bordering on greenwashing. Today, sales of organic and natural cosmetics (+8 % to 972 million euros in 2020) represent 6.4 % of the market. Tomorrow, their weight in the universe of cosmetics will increase by 2 points to 8.5 % in 2023 thanks to sales that will jump by 12 % per year in value to approach 1.4 billion euros at the end of the period, according to the calculations of Xerfi Precepta experts. The French want products that are more responsible and better for their health. And there is no shortage of growth drivers between the considerable development of the offer in distribution channels, the abundance of innovations from laboratories and the growing weight of Millenials in the consumer population. In this context, the enthusiasm for organic and sustainable cosmetics has every chance of becoming a lasting phenomenon. And the giants of the conventional hygiene-beauty industry intend to take advantage of this windfall after a first failed foray into this niche in the early 2000s.

And they are working hard to get their organic cosmetics into the bathrooms of France. They are adapting their major brands, such as Garnier Bio, to organic formulas, or creating new ones, such as La Provençale Bio at L'Oréal. The sector's majors are also competing in terms of environmental initiatives, such as the new sustainable development program "L'Oréal for the future", unveiled in June. For the world leader in cosmetics, it is a question of regaining consumer confidence by demonstrating the authenticity and consistency of its approach, and taking advantage of the clean beauty phenomenon, with responsible ranges that can meet consumer expectations without being as restrictive as organic products.

If the giants of conventional cosmetics (L'Oreal with Ushuaïa, Mixa, Cadum and Garnier; Unilever with Dove, Timoteï, Monsavon; Henkel with Vademecum, Le Chat...) are redoubling their efforts to convert the organic and natural cosmetics market to the mass market, the pioneers have not said their last word. The latter are still in the lead in terms of market share. They will nevertheless have to roll up their sleeves. First, they will have to increase their production capacity to meet the growing demand. Léa Nature has thus inaugurated a new factory in 2019 to eventually triple its production. Pioneers must also focus on expanding their offerings while preserving their brand image. Last year, Pierre Cattier marketed its first range of sun cream, a segment that has not yet been fully developed by the organic sector. The adoption of vegan production methods or the implementation of local supply chains are also among the initiatives of specialized brands.

At the same time, there is a boom in DNVBs, the digital native vertical brandsThese brands originally developed exclusively on the Internet to ensure their promotion and distribution. Several factors explain the extent of this phenomenon. Beauty is one of the most shared topics on social networks. Consumer mistrust is also conducive to the emergence of new brands that can stand out and claim strong values in favor of health, the environment or respect for animals. The most relayed and followed on social networks quickly arouse the interest of distributors, such as selective perfumeries and department stores. As an example, the brand Respire, created on the web in 2016, is referenced since 2019 in Sephora and Monoprix stores.

Mass retailing, soon to be the main channel

While the crisis as a whole has weighed down sales of beauty products (closure of the selective channel during confinements, simplification of beauty routines, etc.), sales of organic products have been able to rely on the continued activity of organic stores, supermarkets and pharmacies (its main distribution channels). While the penetration rate of e-commerce in the hygiene-beauty market remained limited, online sales of hygiene-beauty products in supermarkets and the selective channel jumped by 28 % and 52 % respectively in value last year. And, over the average period, specialized retailers (organic cosmetics stores, general organic stores, pharmacies and parapharmacies) have both favored the emergence of organic and natural cosmetics and have reaped most of the benefits of the growth in sales. Their historical legitimacy and the width of their offer are of course not unrelated to this.

From now on, supermarkets are in the front line and intend to catch up. GSAs are also the place of purchase that recruits the largest number of new consumers. And indeed, 45 % of them made their first purchase of organic cosmetics in 2020. Given the offensive of the giants of the cosmetics industry on organic, mass distribution has solid assets to become the first distribution channel for organic and natural cosmetics in the near future These include: an accessible offer, exclusive distribution of the organic offer of the giants of the cosmetics industry and the referencing of the brands of certain laboratories specialized in organic products, such as So'Bio Éthic or Weleda.

Author of the study : Benoît Samarcq

Orlandi and PO Group offer a recyclable scented paper

site-industries-cosmetiques Orlandi and PO Groupe offer a recyclable paper scented with flowers and a perfume bottle on a green background.

Joining forces to be stronger, faster and more efficient in the deployment of their CSR policies is the sustainability strategy implemented by the two SMEs Orlandi and PO Groupe. The aim is to offer the perfume industry high-performance, environmentally-friendly products based on each company's expertise.

A "win-win" alliance

Today, the entire perfume industry is mobilized, from formula design to packaging recyclability. "The small size of our companies enables us to be nimble and therefore quick to respond to this unavoidable challenge," declare the two players in unison. "We don't have the same means at our disposal as the big groups to develop a CSR strategy on all fronts, so it's vital that we join forces to pool our energy, resources and talents in the search for solutions."

The PO Groupe has the technical expertise to apply embossing, gilding, laminating, varnishing, silk-screening and die-cutting finishing techniques to paper and cardboard substrates. Proud of its artisanal model, since 2012 it has been offering innovative technology and technical expertise in printing and perfuming paper and cardboard for olfactory communication and marketing. An innovation characterized by perfect mastery of the interactions between the substrate, the inks and the fragrance. PO Groupe already accompanies a number of projects for the entire industry, including some of the most prestigious brands who appreciate its creativity, ingenuity and innovative spirit.

Orlandi, for its part, has expertise in fragrance sampling, as well as a real understanding of the perfume and cosmetics industries, particularly the luxury segment, which it has been supporting for several decades in its communication and olfactory marketing strategies across all distribution channels.

"Orlandi's expertise in sales and marketing development, coupled with PO Groupe's mastery of production, enables us to offer the perfume industry an olfactory marketing solution capable of supporting their CSR policy and meeting consumer expectations," emphasizes Philippe Ughetto, Senior VP of Orlandi EMEA. 

"Our technical solutions were recently assessed as recyclable by customers and by CEREC (Comité d'Evaluation de la Recyclabilité des Emballages papier-Carton). What's more, PO has 3 production subsidiaries in France for the design/manufacture and delivery of its products, guaranteeing a short, local circuit made in France", explains Benoît Frassaint, CEO of PO Groupe.

This joint initiative, which accompanies the CSR efforts and policies already implemented by each partner, promises to be a real gas pedal, the promise of a lever for growth and sustainability. 

Pai Skincare secures Series B investment from Famille C Venture / Courtin-Clarins

site-industries-cosmetiques Keywords: Pai Skincare, Series B investment.

London-based organic cosmetics brand Pai has closed a £6.4 million (€7.5 million/$9 million) Series B investment by Famille C Venture, an investment company owned by the Courtin-Clarins family, founders and owners of Clarins.

Pai is thus benefiting from accelerated growth thanks to its vertical integration model, which has enabled it to run its business effectively despite the twin challenges of Covid-19 and Brexit.

The funding will enable Pai to open new R&D and production facilities in West London to meet the growing demand for its products worldwide.

"Our Series B capital raising gives us the financial strength we need to drive growth in our strategic markets. Choosing to innovate by taking the hardest route - developing and manufacturing our own products - is unusual in the UK beauty sector, says founder Sarah Brown. Famille C Venture shares both our passion for product creation and our values of transparency and sustainability, making them an excellent partner."

This funding will also support projects to develop platforms aimed directly at consumers, and an ambitious range of new products developed via the "Pai Labs" innovation platform. These investments are aimed at consolidating and sustaining the brand's leading position in organic and eco-friendly skincare.

"We're proud to support Pai Skincare and to be part of her fantastic project. Sarah has founded a company with a particularly original model and fantastic potential. I'm convinced that Pai has a role to play in our sector, and represents a high value-added proposition that perfectly meets the expectations of new customers. We are honored to provide her with solid financial support and personalized guidance.said Prisca Courtin-Clarins, Founder and CEO of Famille C Venture.

Pai is independently owned and managed, with Sarah Brown remaining majority shareholder and Managing Director.

Prisca Courtin-Clarins, Founder and CEO of Famille C Venture, will become a member of Pai's Board of Directors. CAPInvest, the family office that invested in Pai's Series A in 2017, remains an investor and director.

Procos sets up in the United States

site-industries-cosmetiques A man in a suit stands in front of a Procos wall.

Procos, a German manufacturer of packaging for leading luxury brands, is expanding into the US market with the establishment of a Procos Americas office, based in New York from March 2021.

Sébastien Williams, with more than 25 years of experience in international sales of packaging for beauty markets, joins Procos as Director of Sales for Procos Americas, Inc.

Throughout his career, Sébastien Williams has developed a vast network and worked with the leaders in the primary packaging market.

Sébastien Williams now returns to his first experience in the luxury secondary packaging industry, and will be able to draw on his solid skills to ensure the creation and development of this new Procos Americas entity.

According to Leander Kritikos, Chairman and CEO of Procos: "This move into the USA is part of Procos' development strategy to support luxury brands locally with their secondary packaging needs."

Headquartered in Munich, Procos has sales offices in Paris, London, China and now the USA. The group achieved sales of 25 million USD in 2020 and forecasts growth of 15% in 2021.

Line Daigneau joins Prad as Sales Director

site-industries-cosmetiques A black and white photo of a woman with dark hair.

Prad, a company specializing in top-of-the-range, made-in-France decoration on glass and aluminum, welcomes its new Sales Manager, Line Daigneau, whose mission is to develop Prad's activities in the French and European markets, in the perfume and cosmetics sector. She has over 20 years' experience in the world of beauty and luxury (Cosmogen, Qualipack, Clarins group, Ch. Wauters & fils).

Prad has mastered the following key technologies: liquid metallization, lacquering, laser finishing and screen, pad and hot stamping techniques. Used individually or in combination, they enable a wide range of renderings, nuances, color and/or material effects, combined with extreme line precision. The impeccable quality of the decors produced is as appealing to the eye as it is to the touch, and supports brands in the sensory experience they wish to offer consumers.

Liquid metallization, our flagship technology, provides a full or partial metal look, numerous metallic shades and infinite possibilities for transparency and gradation. Developed on a specific dust-free line, the process is perfectly controlled and environmentally virtuous.

Lacquering modifies surface appearance (gloss, matte, satin), colors (unlimited), special effects (pearlescent, iridescent, metallic) and feel (smooth, soft, grainy).

Laser finishing complements metallization with chiselled cut-outs and engravings, for ultra-fine decorations and light effects.

Silk-screen printing, pad printing and hot stamping are generally combined to showcase high-precision text and drawings on all types of media.

"I'm delighted to be joining Prad, whose industrial activity is based in the Drôme region, just outside Valence. I share the values of its CEO and owner for the past five years, Bruno Pierrain, who has made the strategic choice of finishing only containers made from infinitely recyclable materials such as metal and glass. Recent investments have considerably reduced the environmental footprint of the decoration processes used, including metallization, and open up a host of high-quality possibilities. I discovered a highly committed team, always ready to provide a solution. Prad counts some major brands among its customers. My aim is to continue deploying this French know-how with them.says Line Daigneau.

"When I took over Prad, my ambition was to invest in a company on a human scale. I set out to maintain a social dialogue conducive to innovation and continuous improvement, to develop the team's skills, and to have a high-performance, competitive and environmentally-friendly French production facility. Over time, our development will require the creation of a sales department to strengthen our relationships with our customers in France and Europe. I have entrusted this mission to Line Daigneau. We share the values that are dear to Prad: respect, solidarity and eco-responsibility", emphasizes Bruno Pierrain, Chairman and CEO.

Manufacturing cosmetic packaging in Europe for over 50 years

site-industries-cosmetiques Manufacture of a bottle of black ink with a transparent lid on a white surface.

Ancieto Canamasas founded Faca Packaging in Spain in 1970. At the end of last year, the company celebrated half a century of activity despite a difficult year in 2020.

Over the past 50 years, many things have happened, some positive, some difficult. Despite the current global situation, Faca packaging continues to be a leader in luxury and high-end packaging for the cosmetics industry. Its mold making division also joins the party, as it produced its 3,000th mold in 2020, placing innovation in the fields of injection and blow molding at the heart of its approach.

Technological innovations

This year was also important for Faca Packaging, which continued to modernize and renew its machines. Important investments have been made in machines for a more sustainable and lower consumption, both in injection with the acquisition of heavy machines allowing multi-cavity molds, and in decoration and assembly, with state-of-the-art machines for quality control using very high speed artificial vision cameras.

Sustainable development

This year Faca Packaging has renewed its most representative model, the refillable T22 - version, which has been constantly imitated over the last 20 years. Now it has a refillable cup, as well as the possibility of making it from recyclable and recycled materials.

Since 2019, Faca Packaging has been using 100 % renewable energy in all three factories, the injection mold plant, as well as in its offices, continuing the commitment to environmental sustainability, all electricity consumption comes from fully renewable energy.

"In addition to this, we must not forget the most important pillars that have always characterized Faca Packaging: R&D, design, exclusivity and quality, is emphasized within the company. We work in a 100 % clean room with a guaranteed system, approval of ISO - 9001 certifications, and the current development of ISO-14001."

Added value

The product has two important elements. The first is technical. It concerns the functional elements on which the design of the packaging must be based for a safe and clean packaging.

The second element is aesthetics. Essential aspects such as design, decoration and finishes are involved.

"Our extensive knowledge and focus over the past 50 years has enabled us to meet this aesthetic, technological and functional challenge in an exceptional way. We continue to aim to launch 4-5 models per year, as well as expand our patent list, which currently numbers over 300, says the company. We are very proud to be able to celebrate our 50th anniversary, and of course we thank all our customers for the trust they have placed in us over the years."

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