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Shiseido Beauty Innovations Fund lead investor in Trautec

The Shiseido Beauty Innovations Fund, established by the Chinese subsidiary of Shiseido Company, Limited ("Shiseido"), Shiseido China Co., Ltd. and Boyu Capital, announces its first investment in Jiangsu Trautec Medical Technology Co., Ltd. (Trautec). Shiseido will be the main investor with an investment of nearly RMB 100 million. In addition, Shiseido will form a strategic partnership with Trautec to work together in areas such as product R&D, raw material sourcing and sales channels to accelerate the exploration of new areas in functional skin care.

Founded in 2015, Trautec is dedicated to the development and production of recombinant collagen-based biomaterials for the primarily medical and cosmetic industries. As an industry pioneer, Trautec operates the complete value chain, from R&D to distribution, holding multiple intellectual property rights to the development of recombinant collagen, and owning its production plant located in Changzhou, Jiangsu province. The functional skin care market is experiencing significant growth as more and more Chinese consumers seek effective solutions to their skin problems. The need for recombinant collagen is growing due to its stability and efficacy, as well as its wide application in medicine, healthcare and cosmetics.

The Shiseido Beauty Innovations Fund explores investment opportunities among emerging Chinese cosmetics and wellness companies, as well as related technology businesses such as e-commerce and digital services. Through this fund, Shiseido will merge its own values with those of emerging companies to enhance its business portfolio in China, meet the diversified needs of consumers and steadily strengthen business in China, which is one of the pillars of the company's medium- to long-term strategy "WIN 2023 and Beyond".

Genderless beauty is the new norm

It's time to talk "trend" and realize that gender-neutral beauty has become the norm in beauty products. Celebrities, influencers and the general public, especially the younger generations, are increasingly embracing a gender-fluid aesthetic that uses clothing, hair, makeup and other visual elements to honor self-expression and inclusivity.

This change is happening on a global level. According to the Mintel report "The Next Genderation," 53 % of young Chinese women increasingly like to wear gender-neutral clothing. More than half of Canadian men have used or want to use gender-neutral beauty products, and 56 % of UK consumers think diversity has become a requirement for beauty brands. Consumer expectations have influenced the launch of brands that emphasize neutrality, with public figures like Harry Styles, Fedez and Pharrell Williams as founders and headliners. They promote everything from skincare to nail polish, all of which are gender neutral.

According to Marcia Bardauil, Market Insights Lead at Quadpack, these influencers are helping to engage a type of customer that was harder to access: men. "They open up new possibilities just by being playful and authentic men, using makeup, nail polish or even adding more skin care steps to their routine. "

Major beauty players are investing in this promising market, either by partnering with gender-fluid icons like fashion designer Harris Reed, as MAC did, or by acquiring successful brands, as Coty recently did with Orveda.

Packaging is the key

Beauty packaging plays a key role in helping brands navigate this new scenario. Skincare, makeup and fragrances are increasingly displaying a non-genre image, designed to appeal to both men and women. Sleek, simple packaging that is practical and sustainable is the most popular among these brands, and decoration is key to conveying gender neutrality. Men's skincare collections, for example, are losing their "macho" look and incorporating more skincare and makeup products, colorful decoration and cool messages.

Lutz Hübner appointed new CEO of Ada Cosmetics

Ada Cosmetics appoints Lutz Hübner as new CEO. With immediate effect, Hübner will lead all activities of the leading hotel cosmetics manufacturer.

Mr. Hübner can look back on a long and successful career. A native of Hamburg, he has spent the last 18 years in various management positions at BWT (Best Water Technology), Europe's leading water treatment company. Most recently, as COO Point of Entry and CMO of the BWT Group, he successfully developed the BWT brand worldwide. He also led BWT in Germany as Managing Director. In this capacity, he made a decisive contribution to the rebranding of the company and enabled BWT to set innovative technological trends in the field of water treatment.

With his international experience in leadership and market management, Lutz Hübner's goal is to stimulate the growth of the Ada Cosmetics Group worldwide and to strengthen its leading position. The development of sustainable, future-oriented products and strategies is at the top of his agenda, in line with the corporate objective "Putting Beauty into Travel".

" Our customers can rely on Ada Cosmetics as a strong partner in the hospitality industry. Our worldwide production facilities and our global distribution network guarantee a high quality service. Our enthusiasm for beauty, hygiene, safety and health has resulted in the world's best hygienic dosing system for hotel cosmetics and our unique brand portfolio. Our approximately 600 employees will inspire our customers with their well-known competence, reliability and creativity, as well as with a new dynamism ", said Hübner.

New generation of shoppers: 27% of French people now prefer to shop online

Online shopping continues to grow in the wake of the pandemic. In France, over 27% of shoppers now prefer to make their purchases primarily online. This result places France 9th out of 13 countries in an international comparison carried out by Klarna, the leading banking, payment and shopping services provider, in its latest quarterly Shopping Pulse* update involving over 14,000 consumers.

Generation Z leads the way in digital transformation

This generation stands out as particularly fond of the online shopping experience, and favors online shopping for most product categories. However, in-store shopping is still preferred for food products (48% prefer to shop mainly in-store, 24% online).

Although online shopping is steadily increasing, traffic in physical stores was strong in the second quarter of 2022, as 71% of French shoppers made their purchases in physical stores, while 31% did the same online over the course of a week. The trend is reversed among the younger generations, who are more comfortable and confident with digital. Among members of Generation Z, the share of weekly shoppers is 57% in-store and 45% online. 

Shopping experience keeps stores popular

The majority of French people report a better overall customer experience in-store (61%) versus 39% online. This result is driven by baby-boomers (72%), Generation X (59%), Generation Z (54%) and millennials (57%), who still mainly prefer to buy in-store. 
Buyers' choice of purchasing preferences depends very much on whether they are looking to save time and money, or for better social interaction and more responsive customer service, which 85% currently consider to be in-store. However, when it comes to buying online, the main advantages are saving time (74%), money (72%) and a wider choice of products (70%). 

2 out of 3 Gen Zers turn to digital solutions to bridge the gap

Technological innovations are driving new behaviors and preferences, and the trend may well be reversing. Younger generations (24% of Generation Z and 22% of millennials) already believe they get better social interaction online than in-store. Social networks have a lot to do with this: 64% of Generation Z make purchases via social networks every month (versus 29% for older generations) and 24% have attended live shopping events (versus 10% for older generations).

Facebook no longer holds its own against Instagram and TikTok

TikTok and Instagram, the more visual alternatives to Facebook, are by far the most popular social networks for shopping among younger generations, with more than half of Generation Z members making a purchase on at least one of the platforms. Across the whole population, the share having made a purchase on Tik Tok has risen from 27 % to 33 %, and Instagram from 41 % to 47 % compared with the first quarter of 2022. Facebook has dropped in popularity from 58 % to 46 % and is no longer the most popular social network for purchases in France.

"French shopping habits are evolving with their lifestyles, reinforcing their confidence in digital and new omnichannel possibilities" comments Eric Petitfils, Director of Klarna in France. "Today, the French still prefer physical stores for their social interactions, even if new generations of shoppers are reversing the trend by turning to the flexibility and customer experience of online. To keep pace with this fundamental trend, retailers need to start investing in these new channels now, to best meet consumers' needs." 

Successful smallholder project in the shea butter supply chain contributes to Beiersdorf's Climate Care mission

Beiersdorf is pleased to announce significant progress on projects currently underway in the West African countries of Burkina Faso and Ghana to empower women in the shea supply chain: to date, more than 4,000 women have participated in their trainings, for example through the Clean Cookstoves Initiative. In the process, women have learned to use local materials to build safer and more efficient alternatives to traditional cookstoves. They also learned how to protect their valuable source of income by managing shea parks; so far, 5,000 seedlings of the only shea tree have been planted.

Projects empower women and secure their source of income

" The feedback from the women who participate illustrates the positive impact our involvement has had on the ground. We are incredibly proud that the project has been so successful, despite all the challenges posed by the pandemic, and that we have been able to support these women in sustainable shea production through knowledge sharing and training. "The women gained access to microcredit through additional training in village savings and loan associations, which enabled them to invest in other business and commercial opportunities. The women gained access to microcredit through additional training in village savings and loan associations, which enabled them to invest in other business and commercial opportunities. " During our visit, we saw firsthand how women are directly applying their newly acquired knowledge, improving their lives and the well-being of their communities "adds Lisette Townsend.

Beiersdorf is empowering women in the shea supply chain in Ghana and Burkina Faso with several initiatives since 2019: It is an important part of our responsible sourcing programs, contributing to our Care Beyond Skin sustainability program and our Climate Care mission. In 2019, the Hamburg-based company has set a goal of supporting 10,000 women shea collectors in West Africa within five years. Shea butter, the "gold of African women," is a versatile moisturizer and an important raw material for Beiersdorf products, especially in body and lip care. The project is implemented by Beiersdorf in cooperation with the Swedish shea supplier AAK, and is supported by the German climate protection solutions provider First Climate and the Global Shea Alliance. All shea nuts are harvested in the wild from single trees widely scattered in the savannah and from farmland owned by local farmers. The planting of shea seedlings supports the farmer-controlled regeneration process by encouraging the natural germination of trees.

Sustainable emissions reduction through carbon insetting

In 2022, the company strengthened its commitment and leveraged other capable partners, First Climate and SustainCERT, to add another element to its existing commitment - "Carbon Insetting." " With this pioneering program, Beiersdorf will contribute to a sustainable reduction of emissions in its own supply chain" says Mike Hatert, COO of First Climate. The company managed the administrative process that led to the project's validation as a SustainCERT-recognized emissions reduction project. While local women previously used simple three-stone stoves fueled by firewood to pre-process shea kernels, they now use energy-efficient stoves they built themselves. These are 2.5 times more efficient than traditional stoves and can be used for both shea kernel processing and home cooking. This reduces the need for firewood and associated emissions. With a total of 11,000 stoves produced and used, the overall expected reduction in emissions - including private use of the stoves - is approximately 53,000 metric tons over a 5-year period. A total of 2,890 metric tons is expected to be reduced through the more efficient processing of shea kernels alone over the same period.

At Beiersdorf, we believe that it's the little things that make a big difference: the project gives women valuable skills to secure their livelihoods and support themselves and their families independently. It is also an example of Beiersdorf's commitment to supporting smallholder projects, such as those already in place for palm oil, while contributing to a more sustainable supply chain. " The results of this project are very promising and provide us with valuable insights on how to achieve our ambitious climate target of reducing Scope 3 emissions by 30 % in absolute terms by 2025 This is the first time that a company has been involved in the development of a new product," says Jean-François Pascal, Vice President, Sustainability, at Beiersdorf AG.

Amorepacific's Braille label wins Red Dot Design Award

Amorepacific has developed Braille labels for bath products and won the Red Dot Design Award 2022 in the Brands & Communication Design category.

The prize-winning product is the "braille tag" for hair and body products. The label has been designed with visually impaired consumers in mind, who have difficulty distinguishing between different bath products such as shampoo and shower gel, as there are no Braille markings on the product containers.

They come in the form of four types of silicone-based Braille labels, two postcards and a list written in Braille. Braille indicating body cleanser, body lotion, shampoo and conditioner are written in Korean and English on each label. And at the bottom of the labels, different shapes are engraved to help consumers distinguish between products. The labels are also designed to be placed on a variety of bath products of different shapes and sizes.

Amorepacific ensured that the labels were reviewed by visually impaired consumers during the Braille label development process, and donated the labels to students at the Seoul National School for the Blind in Yongsan-gu, Seoul.

The Red Dot Design Award, presented by the Design Zentrum Nordrhein Westfalen in Germany, is considered one of the three most prestigious design prizes in the world, alongside Germany's iF Design Award and the USA's International Design Excellence Awards (IDEA). Each year, it selects and rewards creative and innovative products.

BASF Venture Capital and Aqua-Spark invest in Sea6 Energy

BASF Venture Capital GmbH, the venture capital company of BASF SE (Germany), and Aqua-Spark, a Dutch investment fund specialized in the global aquaculture industry, are investing in Sea6 Energy Pvt. Ltd. in a Series B financing round.

Sea6 Energy, founded in 2010 and located in Bangalore, India is a leader in the production and processing of tropical red algae. Other existing investors include: Tata Capital Innovations Fund. With this investment, Sea6 Energy will complete its Series B transaction for a total amount of INR 1,402 million (approximately $18.5 million).

Red seaweed grows mainly in the tropical waters of Asia, where the constant high temperatures are conducive to year-round growth. The biomass of fast-growing red algae can be used as raw material for various applications, e.g. in animal feed and plant protection products, as a gelling ingredient in the food industry or as an ingredient in cosmetics. Only a small part of the commercially available seaweed comes from wild collections. Most of it is cultivated on farms, especially in Asia, and since 1950, the amount produced worldwide has increased a thousandfold. In 2019, nearly 35 million tons of seaweed were produced, about half of which was red seaweed. The market volume of seaweed products was nearly $17 billion in 2020. However, large-scale commercial sea farming is complex, and technical systems must withstand adverse weather conditions, such as storms and waves.

Sea6 Energy has adapted its farming technology to deeper water and adverse weather conditions and covers both parts of the value chain with its integrated business model. To identify the right locations and conditions for its farms, Sea6 Energy uses satellite imagery, for example. Under the right conditions, at least six harvests per year are possible.

The company is headquartered in Bangalore, India, while in Bali, Indonesia, it has established a wholly owned subsidiary dedicated to the commercial cultivation of seaweed. Sea6 operates several plants in Tuticorin, India, for the further processing of red algae for various applications. For example, the company produces biostimulants for agriculture and shrimp farming that increase resistance to disease and stress. Sea6 Energy is also working on the development of bioplastics and biofuels based on red algae. In addition, Sea6 Energy has developed a patented process that increases the shelf life of red algae from one to two days to 60 days. This facilitates the transportation of fresh red algae, which can otherwise only be transported over long distances after being dried.

Sea6 Energy convinced us with its integrated business model" Markus Solibieda, Managing Director of BASF Venture Capital GmbH, said. " With its extensive experience in biotechnology, the team has created very good conditions upstream to cultivate red algae as biomass on a large scale, while demonstrating success downstream with its biorefinery. This opens up opportunities for the transition of traditionally crude-dependent industries, such as the chemical industry, to renewable feedstocks.
Our vision is to be able to offer biomass and red algae products on a large scale in a sustainable and reliable manner. With our patented mechanized cultivation technology, we can produce high quality biomass on a large scale and at competitive prices, which can enable products such as bioplastics and biofuels" Shrikumar Suryanarayan, CEO and co-founder of Sea6 Energy, said. " We are pleased to have experienced partners on our side at BASF and we are pleased with the renewed commitment of Aqua-Spark.
Sea6 has made great strides over the past year, and we are excited to continue supporting the company. We believe Sea6's algae cultivation technology is a real game changer for the industry, enabling a variety of commercial-scale red algae applications" Aqua-Spark managing partners Mike Velings and Amy Novogratz said. Aqua-Spark has been an investor in Sea6 Energy since June 2021.
The transaction also provides a partial exit and liquidity to Tata Capital Innovations Fund.

Myralys named Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award 2022

Greentech is pleased to announce that Myralys was honored at the In Cosmetics Korea trade show a few days ago, winning the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award 2022, in the Active Ingredients category. This new award recognizes the R&D and sustainable sourcing work carried out by Greentech teams. It also attests to the importance of the close partnerships Greentech has established locally in France, with both producers and academic laboratories.

greentech 2- Ingredients - Product info

Myralys - Eyelid lift & eye rejuvenator

This new active ingredient dedicated to eye contour care reflects Greentech's 30 years of expertise in phytochemistry, green extraction and bioguided fractionation. Myralys is a Cosmos-certified organic active ingredient, highly purified in gentiopicroside, derived from organic wild yellow gentian roots, for rejuvenating the upper and lower eye contours. Harvested locally and sustainably in France by gentian farmers trained in good harvesting practices, gentian roots are rigorously selected by Greentech scientists for their gentiopicroside content, to obtain a highly titrated extract thanks to an advanced purification process.

To counter eye ageing, Myralys targets 6 interconnected biological pathways (multi-pathway approach): antioxidant and anti-inflammatory responses, angiogenesis, lymphatic function, glycation and dermal ageing.

For a look that defies time

Clinically tested on volunteers with aging eyes, MYRALYS lifts sagging upper eyelids and has a rejuvenating effect on the lower eye contour, reducing the severity of dark circles, puffiness and tear troughs, with visible and significant results as early as 14 days.

greentech2- Ingredients - Product info

Bio-EC, Spincontrol and Genex, part of the Bio-EC / Spincontrol group, join the Eurofins network of companies

Eurofins has successfully completed the acquisition of a majority stake in Bio-EC, Spincontrol and Genex, part of the Bio-EC / Spincontrol Group, as part of its ambitions to expand its global offering in the cosmetics and personal care sector. The acquisition adds ex vivo objectification and cosmetogenomics capabilities and strengthens the Eurofins Group's ability to perform ad-hoc clinical efficacy studies, emotional studies and image analysis.
By joining forces, Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care (C&PC) and Bio-EC, Spincontrol and Genex will leverage their respective expertise and capabilities to offer creative, unique and integrated solutions for cosmetics, dietary supplements and medical devices.
The French companies are headquartered in Paris and Tours, with three sites in France and Canada, and employ 58 people.

With 24 years of experience, Bio-EC brings innovative capabilities to Eurofins, with a strong position in ex vivo models and mechanisms and in vitro toxicology services, as well as new clinical facilities in Paris and unique expertise with its own in-house RAMAN. With the most sophisticated R&D capabilities and equipment, Bio-EC is involved in several research and innovation projects and channels its expertise to propose new models and methods every year.

As one of the industry's most experienced and influential companies in clinical efficacy studies, Spincontrol France and Spincontrol Canada support Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care's ambition to strengthen its portfolio and capture the value it brings to its customers. Well known in the market with 31 years of experience, Spincontrol will allow Eurofins C&PC to expand its existing clinical capabilities, ad hoc testing protocols and emotion studies, open up access to in-house image analysis and new imaging technologies, and bring its companies closer to local and regional customers in France and Canada.

Genex's expertise in cosmetogenomics will help Eurofins C&PC offer its clients a new way of monitoring gene expression to comprehensively identify product effects and reveal new targets and mechanisms.

Firmenich posts record results despite a difficult macroeconomic environment

Firmenich International SA, the world's largest privately-owned fragrance and flavor company, announces its annual results for the 52 weeks ending June 30, 2022.

Financial highlights

  • Revenue of CHF 4723 million, up +11.11TP6Q1 Adjusted EBITDA of CHF 905 million, up +10.91TP6Q.
  • Adjusted EBITDA margin 19.21TP6Q, up +10 basis points
  • Free cash flow of CHF 414 million, down -19.1%, or -5.9% on a comparable basis2 EBITDA to free cash flow conversion ratio of 51.8 %.
  • Record revenues and adjusted EBITDA, despite a difficult global environment for raw materials, logistics and energy costs.
  • Outperforming the sector in terms of sales growth and market share gains, underpinned by double-digit sales growth in Fragrance & Ingredients and Taste & Beyond, thanks to improved customer demand.
  • Sales growth in all regions, with strong momentum in our main geographical areas, notably Europe (+18.9%), India (+13.1%), China (+9.4%) and North America (+5.1%).
  • Strong cash generation, despite higher safety stocks linked to the priority given to customer service in the supply chain in a difficult global environment.

Firmenich's strong performance in FY22 is the result of our ongoing commitment to serving and innovating with our customers, and testifies to the strength of our fragrance and taste offerings. We are now entering a new chapter in our history, with the announced merger with DSM, and I am pleased to see that our company is entering this new phase from a position of strength." said Patrick Firmenich, Chairman of the Board.

Despite a persistently difficult macroeconomic environment, Firmenich posted another year of good results, with double-digit growth in sales and adjusted EBITDA. We demonstrated leadership and excellence in execution. As always, I would like to thank our 11,000 employees for making this possible. I look forward to the year ahead, which marks the beginning of a new chapter for Firmenich.  "said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich.

Strengths of the operation

  • Continue to prioritize customer supply, preserving TOTIF3's superior service levels, in a particularly challenging global environment for raw materials and the supply chain.
  • Firmenich benefited from its continued investment in growth segments and differentiated offerings, including sugar reduction, natural and renewable ingredients, plant-based foods, clean and responsible fragrances, e-commerce and digital channels.
  • Continued investment in strategic markets, highlighted by the move to a majority stake in ArtSci in April 2022 to better serve the fast-growing Chinese taste market.
  • Ongoing strategic investment in innovation:

o Announcement of the creation of a Scientific Advisory Board in May 2022 to oversee our R&D strategy.

o Inauguration of a state-of-the-art creation and development center at the Dubai Science Park, to strengthen science and innovation capabilities,

o Launch of new biodegradable ingredients such as Muguissimo™ and natural 100% ingredients including Muguet Firgood™.

  • Raising the ESG bar: Improved industry-leading Sustainalytics ESG risk score to 7.5, placing it among the top 50 companies assessed worldwide; Recognition as one of the world's most ethical companies by Ethisphere in 2022; achieved CDP's triple-A rating for the fourth consecutive time; and achieved EcoVadis' platinum sustainability rating for the second time in a row, with an industry-leading score of 88/100, placing it in the top 1 % of companies assessed.

Performance for fiscal 2022

In fiscal 2022, the global economy experienced a challenging raw materials and supply chain environment, compounded by high geopolitical instability and new waves of Covid-19 in various regions.

Despite this context, Firmenich achieved record sales growth across the company, as well as double-digit growth in adjusted EBITDA and strong cash generation. Firmenich navigated this challenging environment with agility, prioritizing service and security of supply for its customers. Its reliability as a business partner, combined with the competitive advantage provided by its vertical integration of supply, enabled it to continue to gain market share.

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